"A concise test of precision tucked beside Split Personality, Who Needs Footwork demands clean smearing and delicate crack work. This single-pitch slab climb in Squamish offers a practical lesson in balance and technique against a backdrop of granite and forest."
Who Needs Footwork delivers a concise but sharp test of precision and nerve on one of Squamish's quieter slab faces. Situated to the left of Split Personality in the Smoke Bluffs, this single-pitch trad route demands careful attention—starting with a thin diagonal crack that slices across the slab’s surface. The crack itself feels alive under your fingers, narrowing and vanishing as you advance, urging a blend of technical crack climbing and delicate slab smearing. After securing the only bolt on route, the final moves challenge you to trust friction over brute strength, balancing on small edges and subtle features underfoot. The rock here, a weathered granite canvas, responds to touch with a slightly abrasive texture that rewards clean foot placement.
This route is modest in length but rich in teaching moments. It’s a quiet corner of the Smoke Bluffs, far from the crowded draws, offering a moment to focus deeply on footwork and body positioning. The approach is straightforward—a gentle walk through forest patches punctuated by songbirds and the rustle of wind teasing the canopy. This setting frames the climb with peaceful natural sounds, easily forgotten once you're tethered to the rock.
Protection calls for a standard rack alongside that single bolt, so bring your nuts and cams but expect to place gear with care in the more acute crack sections. Local climbers appreciate the route's simplicity and focus, viewing it as a perfect warm-up or a skill-sharpening exercise during busier sessions at the Bluffs. As with all granite slab climbs, tireless attention to foothold cleanliness and smooth movements will pay dividends. Moisture or damp surfaces increase slickness, so target dry weather and mid-morning to afternoon hours when the slab warms in the sun.
Squamish itself offers a breathtaking backdrop, with the sea air mingling with forest scents, creating an earthy, crisp atmosphere that grounds the experience beyond the climbing moves. Whether you’re plugging cams, edging on micro-creases, or clipping that lone bolt, Who Needs Footwork invites a dialogue between rock and climber—an honest exploration of finesse in one of British Columbia’s storied crags.
Watch for limited protection opportunities on the lower crack section and remember that the slab above is friction-dependent; slipping here can lead to longer falls if gear isn't well placed. Ensure the slab is thoroughly dry before climbing, as moisture severely reduces grip.
Aim for dry weather; the slab becomes dangerously slick when damp.
Warm up on nearby routes to prepare your footwork skills.
Bring a standard rack emphasizing small cams and nuts.
Mid-morning to afternoon provides the best light and rock temperature.
A single bolt protects the upper slab, but a standard trad rack is essential for securing the thin diagonal crack below. Expect to place smaller cams and nuts carefully in constricted placements before transitioning to slab smearing above.
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