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White Lightning at The Apron: A Bold Friction Slab Adventure in Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
friction slab
runout
multi-pitch
exposed
trad gear
route-finding
The Apron
Squamish
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
White Lightning
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"White Lightning stretches across The Apron in Squamish, offering seven pitches of thrilling friction slab climbing where bold moves meet scarce protection. This route challenges climbers with sustained slab, technical route-finding, and moments of sheer exposure that reward precision and calm."

White Lightning at The Apron: A Bold Friction Slab Adventure in Squamish

White Lightning unspools across The Apron’s granite face, daring climbers into seven pitches of bold friction slab climbing that test nerve and finesse more than brute strength. This route stakes its claim in Squamish as a classic trad challenge where protection is scarce and eyeing your feet is as crucial as eyeing your next bolt. From the moment you step onto pitch one, the rock’s smooth angles and subtle texture demand careful balance and focus, sending you gliding up a low-angle slab that rewards clean footwork with steady progress. The initial pitches share terrain with well-known climbs, easing you into the rhythm before the route veers into its trademark exposed terrain.

Pitch three is the heart of the experience — a sustained 5.9 friction slab where falls are unforgiving due to absent protection. Here, the granite seems to breathe beneath your fingertips, slick yet amenable, silently urging precision. A bolt anchor fifty feet up serves as a lifeline but no gear cushions the climb itself. Step lightly, place feet deliberately, and let the rock’s texture guide your ascent. Next, the crux on pitch four invites you to negotiate a small roof and bulge, followed by a delicate traverse that pushes your route-finding skills. The spaced bolts here provide some security, yet the runout nature means mental calm is as vital as physical ability.

Pitches five and six relieve some intensity with better hardware and more straightforward movement. The sixth pitch offers well-protected arete climbing, mixing exposure with pockets of security, creating a moment to breathe in between the harder slabs. The final pitch rolls out low-angle friction slab that merges seamlessly with the nearby Diedre finish, ending at a tree belay where you can savor the climb’s totality and prepare for descent.

Practical considerations for White Lightning highlight its Type 2.5 rating — a middle ground between thrilling and serious. This means climbers should approach with solid slab technique, comfort on runout terrain, and a mindset prepared for commitment. The route’s location in Squamish means abundant climbing infrastructure, but accessing The Apron requires familiarity with local trails and an understanding of changing weather patterns that can quickly alter rock conditions. Pack sticky shoes, tape your hands if needed to manage the friction slab’s subtle abrasiveness, and consider timing your ascent to avoid crowded pitches, especially since longer linked pitches require good communication and efficient movement.

Beyond the technical climb, The Apron's granite character unfolds in breezy sunlit exposure and panoramic views of Squamish’s lush valley below. The air hums with mountain streams and distant forest wildlife, creating a sensory backdrop that anchors your vertical journey in place and moment. White Lightning is not just a physical challenge—it’s a conversation with the mountain’s raw angle, an exploration of balance, grit, and grace amid a setting that rewards attentiveness.

Whether you’re chasing your first 5.10c R or adding a classic friction slab to your mental archive, this route demands respect and prepares you for more textured granite adventures. Proper approach planning and gear selection are essential, and while the runout sections ask for serious focus, the overall experience leaves climbers with a deep satisfaction—a reminder why Squamish remains a mecca for climbers drawn to routes where nature’s subtle chapters unfold beneath steady hands and thoughtful steps.

Climber Safety

The runout nature of pitches three through five demands uncompromising focus—falls could be significant with minimal protection to catch slides. Route-finding on pitch four is tricky; avoid climbing too high above bolts to prevent getting off-route. Also, be mindful of rock slipperiness after rain, which can turn these slabs treacherous.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches7
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid delays on linked pitches, as traffic can stall progress.

Bring sticky rubber shoes and consider taping to protect hands on abrasive friction slabs.

Prepare for limited protection—practice slab technique and mental focus beforehand.

Check weather forecasts—wet slab can dramatically reduce friction and increase risk.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10c R rating reflects the route’s demanding slab climbing combined with sparse protection, especially on the crux third pitch that carries sustained 5.9 slab moves with no gear. The 'R' tag is well-earned given the potential for long falls if a misstep happens. Compared to nearby multi-pitch climbs in Squamish, White Lightning feels stiffer on friction technique and nerve than raw power. Climbers familiar with other slab routes like Diedre will find the protection budget tighter and the route-finding a more notable challenge.

Gear Requirements

Protection is sparse on the earliest pitches, with a few placements available on pitches one and two but none on the crux third pitch. Pitch four offers opportunities for a cam under the roof and some bolts scattered along the way. Pitches five and six feature more reliable bolt placements, especially the well-bolted sixth pitch. The final pitch allows some optional placements in the Diedre corner.

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Tags

friction slab
runout
multi-pitch
exposed
trad gear
route-finding
The Apron
Squamish