Whirlwind stands as a compelling and rugged trad challenge on The Apron’s expansive granite face in Squamish, British Columbia. This seven-pitch route, stretching approximately 600 feet, begins with friction slabs that reward confident footwork and steadily builds into a demanding overhanging crack system in the upper pitches—perfect for climbers eager to blend smooth slab climbing with technical crack work. From the moment you step onto the initial slab, the quality of rock and intricate line keep you absorbed while the landscape unfolds around you, with Douglas firs framing the approach and the iconic Chief looming to the south.

The first four pitches traverse clean, bolted slabs that command precise foot placements and mental focus. While the slabs don’t typically demand extensive gear, bringing finger-sized cams can be a wise move, especially if you opt for the 10b variation on pitch three. This section nudges climbers to trust the friction and balance, as protection can feel sparse but trustworthy. Pitch one (10c) splits from the standard approach by veering right at the fork, guiding you through a mix of bolted face holds before merging back into the main line. Pitch two (10b) flows with the bolts, inviting smooth slab climbing.

Pitch three splits the experience—stick to the bolts on the left for a cleaner ascent, or try the 11a variation “Buckets Ahoy,” which presents a more sustained slab challenge with direct bolt protection. This pitch finishes at a tree belay spot that offers a brief moment to breathe before continuing into some grittier terrain.

On pitch four (10c), you traverse left across a ledge to reach a bolted anchor at the base of a slabby arete. This pitch’s slabby climbing demands precision, with protection that rewards careful route reading. From here, pitch five (10b) moves out right, descending briefly to stand at the foot of the imposing overhanging corner. Climbers can choose a bold slab ascent using bolts for protection or tackle the direct dirty corner with gear placements. At the base of this corner is a critical gear anchor, setting you up for the crux.

Pitch six delivers Whirlwind’s signature challenge: a steep, overhanging crack climbing sequence rated 10c. This pitch tests endurance and jamming technique with a mix of sustained moves that make full use of your cam placements, energized by the rock’s texture and clean lines. Belaying at the top of the crack offers two options—finish the route by exiting right or push your limits by heading left to link into “Voodoo Amour” (11d), a spectacular roof crack that demands strong fingers and bold tactics.

The final pitch, a 5.9 slab, leads you smoothly to the summit with crisp granite underfoot and panoramic views of the surrounding forest and mountain ranges stretching beyond. The descent flows left into an easy crack system, followed by a walk right from Broadway Ledge to the standard apron descent. For those still hungry, additional climbs await above.

Whirlwind fits climbers ready for sustained slab climbing with a mix of crack and overhang, blending mental and physical demands. The route’s varied protection, from solid bolts on the slabs to finger-sized Camalots in the cracks, means bringing a range of gear is essential. Spring through early fall offers the best weather window when rock conditions are dry and the granite’s friction is at its peak. Water, layered clothing for variable weather, and solid footwear with sticky rubber will support success here. Locals recommend starting early to avoid heat on the slabs and to enjoy quieter trails. Whirlwind doesn’t just test skills—it rewards those who bring focus, stamina, and a spirit ready for adventure in one of Squamish’s most enduring classic lines.