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What's The Use in Getting Sober

McQuirks Mountain, Canada
trad gear
multi-pitch
granite
moderate difficulty
fixed pin crux
bolted anchors
Length: 220 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
What's The Use in Getting Sober
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"What's The Use in Getting Sober offers a rewarding two-pitch trad climb on Moe Wall’s granite, combining solid protection with varied movement. Ideal for climbers who appreciate quality rock and an accessible yet engaging trad route in New Brunswick’s rugged outdoors."

What's The Use in Getting Sober

What’s The Use in Getting Sober unfolds across Moe Wall’s sturdy granite face, offering a compelling mix of moderate challenges and solid climbing moves that draw in those seeking a grounded trad adventure in New Brunswick. This two-pitch route, stretching 220 feet, is a practical choice for climbers who appreciate clean rock and a varied sequence of pitches that evolve from cautious and protective to confident and committed.

Starting at the base, the first pitch eases you into the climb with smooth moves on excellent rock, where traditional gear placements are abundant. While some may find parts of this initial stretch mildly runout, a strategic bolt guards a more exposed section, offering a subtle safety net. The lower half allows an attentive climber to trust their rack and technique, especially with a single rack to 4 inches strongly advised, and doubling up from 1 to 3 inches if you prefer to minimize runouts.

Ascending higher, the route gradually shifts in character, moving into low fifth-class terrain that warms up more muscular climbing skills. The rock stays solid and inviting, with cracks and edges demanding precise footwork and thoughtful gear placements. The headwall on pitch two is a steeper, more sustained test, featuring a fixed pin that marks the crux—a move requiring careful body positioning but rewarding with smooth protection beyond the difficulty. The variety in movement across both pitches makes this route enjoyable without ever feeling monotonous.

Set within New Brunswick’s Moe Wall, the route occupies a landscape where quiet forest trails lead you close to impressive granite exposures. The approach offers a balance of easy to moderate hiking, letting you arrive at the base refreshed and prepared. Climbers admire the location not just for the climbing, but also for the calm, natural surroundings that frame each ascent with gentle breezes and open skies.

Protection here is straightforward but demands attention. A well-rounded traditional rack up to 4 inches is necessary, with advice to double up mid-stops—keys to managing potentially runout sections. Bolted anchors and rap back options make retreat or descent reliable, while leaving enough room for a confident lead. Bringing shoes with precise edging ability and a steady head for exposure enhances the experience.

This route suits trad climbers who enjoy a blend of cautious fun with moments that stretch skill and nerve. It’s accessible without being trivial and taps into the rewarding flow of gear placement and movement rhythm. The presence of fixed gear spots eases some concerns for less-experienced climbers, making this a solid introduction to New Brunswick’s granite walls with enough variety to interest experienced climbers too.

Planning your day here means considering the season and time of day—morning climbs are often quieter, with cooler rock that grips well. The surrounding forest tempers the sun, providing occasional shade. Hydrate smartly; the approach trail offers limited water sources, so pack suitably. Footwear with good traction for the hiking sections ensures safe, confident movement to and from the climb.

In summary, What’s The Use in Getting Sober combines accessible grades, excellent rock quality, and a well-protected route to construct a memorable trad climb on Moe Wall. Its approachable length and engaging second pitch create an ideal outing for climbers looking to sharpen their trad skills against New Brunswick’s granite backdrop while enjoying a peaceful outdoor setting.

Climber Safety

While protection is generally ample, the lower half of pitch one includes a section that can feel runout; careful gear placement and respect for the bolt’s protection are essential. The fixed pin on pitch two’s crux demands deliberate movement—avoid rushing. Ensure your rappel setup is reliable and ropes are long enough to avoid hanging in exposed terrain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length220 feet

Local Tips

Double cam sizes between 1 and 3 inches for extra security on the runout sections.

Start early to catch cooler rock and avoid afternoon sun on the wall.

Use approach shoes with good traction for the uneven forest trail.

Prepare for rappelling with two 60m ropes or longer to ensure a clean descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.6
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.6, this route leans toward the easier end of trad climbing, though some sections—particularly the upper steeper headwall—pose a solid low-fifth challenge. The bolt and fixed pin provide key protection, softening what might otherwise feel like a stiff runout situation. Compared to other New Brunswick climbs, it sits comfortably as a varied warm-up or skill-builder route.

Gear Requirements

Bring a single rack of cams up to 4 inches, doubling up in the 1 to 3 inch range to cover potential runouts. A bolt protects an exposed stretch on pitch one, with a fixed pin guarding the crux on pitch two. Anchors are bolted with rappel options to descend safely.

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Tags

trad gear
multi-pitch
granite
moderate difficulty
fixed pin crux
bolted anchors