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West Ridge Climb on Mount Tupper: A Classic Trad-Alpine Scramble

Golden, Canada
exposed
corner crack
chimney
5.3
trad
alpine
scramble
rappel anchors
Selkirk Mountains
Length: ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
West Ridge
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Mount Tupper’s West Ridge offers a blend of 4th class scrambling and moderate trad climbing with three manageable cruxes at 5.3 difficulty. This alpine route invites climbers to navigate exposed ledges, a defining corner crack, and a memorable arete finish with sweeping mountain views."

West Ridge Climb on Mount Tupper: A Classic Trad-Alpine Scramble

Rising sharply within the remote Selkirk Mountains, Mount Tupper’s West Ridge offers a climb that blends rugged alpine scrambling with technical crack climbing, perfect for those seeking a straightforward yet thrilling adventure. This route encompasses mostly 4th class terrain punctuated by three distinct cruxes, each rated no harder than 5.3, making it accessible to climbers comfortable with basic trad gear and alpine exposure. From the approach, the ridge reveals itself as a spine of broken ledges and rocky features that demand steady footing and bold moves.

Your journey begins by navigating to the broad Hermit gendarme, a large, isolated rock tower that stands as a natural waypoint along the ridge. From here, the route shifts right onto a somewhat exposed traverse. This section requires focus, as the terrain tapers and the exposure heightens. Keep a steady pace along broken ledges, aiming upward and right where scrambling continues toward a defining left-facing corner. This corner crack, along with a chimney located just to its right, presents the technical heart of the climb. Both the corner and chimney can be ascended at the 5.3 level, with the chimney offering perhaps slightly more shelter from the elements. Alternatively, climbers ready for a bit more challenge can attempt the crack system on the face left of the corner, rated just above 5.3.

Beyond this crux, the route loosens its grip on technicality, returning to scrambling as you push towards the summit block. The final section is a sharp, airy arete leading to a surprisingly broad, flat summit area that rewards your effort with a panoramic view of the Columbia Mountains around you. The sheer stillness of the high alpine air, the crisp stone beneath your fingers, and the endless ridgelines stretching into the distance underscore the purity of this climb.

Descent follows the ascent route, but there’s a vital detail: rappel anchors aren’t always obvious on the way down, especially the slung blocks with maillons placed in 2017. Spotting these rappel stations during the ascent is essential for safe retreat.

Protection is entirely trad, and the gear required is straightforward yet demands attention. Fixed rappel chains and a handful of slung blocks are available, but for the majority, your rack needs to cover varieties of nuts and cams suitable for protecting cracks and ledges along the scramble. The rock quality is generally solid but expect some loose sections on the approach and lower scramble.

This climb sits in a relatively remote segment of British Columbia’s Columbia Mountains, an area marked by wild landscapes and limited human presence. The approach is a mixture of trail and off-trail navigation, so preparation and route-finding skills serve climbers well here.

Due to its west-facing ridge, the West Ridge basks in afternoon sun but is better tackled in late spring through early fall when snow has melted from the higher elevations and rock conditions are stable. Early season attempts might encounter slick patches or snow pockets adding complexity.

In all, the West Ridge on Mount Tupper delivers a practical alpine challenge filled with exciting moves, exposed traverses, and classic crack climbing. It’s an inviting choice for climbers wanting to step beyond simple scrambles without committing to sustained technical pitches, enriched by crisp mountain air and wild, quiet surroundings.

Climber Safety

Be vigilant with rappel anchors on descent as several are subtle, including slung blocks with maillons added recently. Loose rock is infrequent but remains possible near ledges; ensure cautious foot placements during traverses and near the airy arete finish. Weather can shift quickly; carry appropriate alpine gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Scout the Hermit gendarme carefully as it's a key navigation point before the exposed traverse.

Carry a rack with small to medium cams for the corner crack and chimney protections.

Mark rappel anchors on your way up; some are hidden and critical for a safe exit.

Plan your climb between late spring and early fall to avoid snow patches and unstable rock.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.3
Quality
Consensus:The 5.3 rating feels true to its technical cruxes, particularly at the left-facing corner crack that demands solid crack climbing technique but stays comfortably within moderate terrain limits. While the chimney near the crux offers an alternative of equal difficulty, the face crack slightly ups the challenge. Compared to local climbs in the Selkirks, this route balances manageable effort with alpine exposure, making it suitable for climbers stepping up from standard scrambling to moderate trad climbing.

Gear Requirements

Trad gear is essential here—expect to place a full rack of cams and nuts for protection along cracks and ledges. Rappel anchors include three fixed chains and several slung blocks equipped with maillons, installed in 2017. Spot these anchors during ascent to smooth your descent.

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Tags

exposed
corner crack
chimney
5.3
trad
alpine
scramble
rappel anchors
Selkirk Mountains