"A remote and demanding alpine trad climb, the West Face of the North Peak offers a direct, exposed ascent marked by loose rock and raw mountain terrain. This eight-pitch route challenges experienced climbers ready to navigate one of Fraser Valley’s less-trodden walls."
Rising sharply above the rugged contours of Old Settler in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley, the West Face of the North Peak lays out a demanding alpine trad line that challenges the committed climber with an uncompromising mix of loose rock and raw exposure. Starting from the base near the familiar Standard Route ramp, this route cuts a relatively direct path upward, tracing what is considered the easiest line to the north summit. The climb stretches over eight pitches and roughly 900 feet, offering a sustained alpine experience far from the crowds.
This wall carries a rugged personality—the rock’s instability forces constant attention, as the terrain tests not only your climbing skill but your trust in each placement. The original ascent team found the conditions uneasy, describing loose holds and occasional unsettled rock that demand careful negotiation. This reality means the route sees few repeat ascents, preserving an aura of remote challenge among Fraser Valley’s alpine offerings.
The surroundings echo the demands of the climb: wind whistles through jagged outcrops while the crisp mountain air fills your lungs. From the wall, panoramic views of the valley below spread wide, framed by dense fir forests and the distant silhouette of glacier-lined peaks. The environment feels alive, almost unyielding, as the north face itself towers with an indifferent, raw majesty.
For gear, a light rack is your ally—traditional cams and nuts will find placements where the rock allows, though many runners must be chosen with an eye for sturdiness amid weathered stone. Double ropes are strongly advised, providing a safety net should a strand be damaged by sharp edges or falling debris. A helmet is essential; rocks do not hesitate to test your gear or your patience here.
Access follows the well-trodden path to Old Settler’s standard ramp, a clear but moderately steep approach that demands respect after rain or snowmelts. Plan for an early start to avoid afternoon cloud buildup common in these parts, and be prepared for swift weather changes. Hydration and layered clothing are practical musts to handle shifting temperatures and the dry gusts sweeping the ridge.
While the route’s reputation for looseness warrants caution, it offers a rare reward: solitude and a test of alpine traditional climbing stripped down to elemental skills. The West Face of the North Peak isn’t for the faint-hearted, but for the climber ready to engage with nature on its own terms, it promises a rugged journey through British Columbia’s wild spine.
Loose and unstable rock throughout the climb heightens the risk of rockfall and dislodged protection. Stay alert for weak holds, always wear a helmet, and protect carefully, as anchors may find limited solid placements. The approach can become slippery after rains, so plan accordingly.
Start early to avoid afternoon weather shifts common in Fraser Valley.
Use double ropes to protect against sharp edges on the climb.
Check recent weather and rock conditions due to reported looseness on the route.
Wear sturdy boots with good traction for the steep, somewhat loose approach trail.
Carry a light traditional rack suited for alpine terrain, combine with double ropes to mitigate rope damage risks, and wear a helmet at all times to protect against falling rock and loose holds.
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