The West Couloir on The Old Settler offers a brisk, alpine ascent that tests both technical skill and mountain awareness. Framing the left side of the South Peak’s West Buttress, this couloir commands respect with its steep snow slopes that often lean at 45 degrees in spring, presenting a crisp, challenging climb for mountaineers prepared to manage mixed conditions. Early season climbers will find a continuous sheet of snow spanning the entire chute, though hidden crevasses demand careful route-finding and a precise foot placement. As summer approaches, these snow bridges give way, exposing an intricate mosaic of rock and ice, where protection shifts from crampons and ice axe reliance toward cautious use of rock pro in dry patches.

Approaching from the Fraser Valley, the Old Settler range feels comfortably remote, offering uninterrupted views of British Columbia’s wilderness while rewarding climbers with a sense of solitary accomplishment. The couloir itself runs roughly 10,000 feet in vertical relief, but the actual climb length hovers near 100 meters, demanding sustained focus and a steady pace. Though the snow may disappear by mid-July, those venturing earlier in the year encounter a dynamic environment where the mountain still holds onto its wintry grasp — the cold air sings quietly around the rock ridges, and the crunch of crampons on firm snow punctuates the ascent.

Safety is paramount here: the shifting snowpack and seasonally exposed crevasses require alpine competence and the correct gear. An ice axe and crampons are non-negotiable for traction and self-arrest, while rock protection might be sparse and tricky to place as the snow melts out, calling for flexible trad climbing skills. The couloir’s direct line leaves little room for error, and steady hands paired with strong route-finding will make the difference between a smooth ascent and an unexpected test of endurance.

For those drawn to the raw, evolving challenge of this alpine corridor, the West Couloir on The Old Settler is an invitation to engage deeply with mountain terrain, blending the hard-earned rewards of spring snow climbing with the tangible appeal of rugged rock sections. Timing your climb between late June and early July maximizes snow coverage while reducing crevasse hazards, offering a balance between adventure and manageable risk. Come prepared to navigate an environment that is simultaneously beautiful and demanding, where every step upwards is a negotiation with the mountain, and every view back down rewards you with a sharp reminder of the vertical journey conquered.