"West Colfax is a polished granite slab climb near Mt. Evans, offering two pitches of mostly 5.6 slab with a slick 5.8 friction move. Well-bolted and scenic, it’s ideal for those venturing into alpine sport routes."
Perched high in the Colorado Rockies, West Colfax on the Lincoln Lake Slabs offers an accessible yet engaging alpine sport climb that draws both fresh alpine climbers and seasoned hands looking for a straightforward warm-up. This two-pitch route stretches about 140 feet over solid granite, featuring mostly moderate moves around 5.6 with a few spots edging into 5.7 and a frictiony 5.8 slide that demands thoughtful footwork. The rock is confidently bolted, providing both security and a clear line upward.
The ascent begins on broad, textured slab terrain that invites steady, deliberate movement as you ascend beneath a bright blue alpine sky. The texture of the granite serves up reliable friction, but the subtle shifts in angle keep you attentive—not the kind of climb you can cruise through without focus. Around 100 feet in, you’ll find the first anchor, a comfortable ledge where most parties choose to take a break and soak in the crisp mountain air and sweeping views toward Mt. Evans.
For climbers itching for a bit more, the route continues up and slightly left through a handful of bolts leading to a second anchor at 140 feet. This upper pitch is where that friction move on 5.8 arrives—short but punchy—rewarding precise balance and solid foot placements. The bolts are thoughtfully spaced, allowing climbers to pace their protection while still feeling the rock beneath their fingers.
Located in the alpine zone of the Mt. Evans area, the approach is straightforward with well-marked trails weaving through pine stands and rocky outcrops. The altitude (above 12,000 feet) means cooler temperatures, especially in the morning, so layering up is wise. Water sources are scarce near the slabs, so pack enough hydration to stay energized. Footwear should offer a solid grip on slab terrain—stiff-soled shoes with a snug fit work best for confidence on friction moves.
West Colfax is perfectly suited for spring through early fall climbing when weather conditions are stable, as afternoon thunderstorms can roll in rapidly at these elevations. Start early to avoid afternoon wet rock and potential lightning hazards. The route's east-southeast aspect catches morning sun, warming the rock quickly but leaving the slab shaded in the late day.
Whether you’re ticking off an alpine sport project or adding a reliable moderate climb to your itinerary, West Colfax balances simplicity and subtle challenge with the crisp mountain air and stunning vistas that only the Rockies can offer. This climb demands enough attention to keep your skills sharp, while being approachable enough for climbers stepping up into alpine sport routes for the first time.
The slab surface can become dangerously slick when wet; avoid climbing during or right after rain. Also, be mindful of fast-changing weather common at 12,000+ feet elevation, and be prepared for rapid temperature drops and high UV exposure.
Approach early in the day to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in the alpine zone.
Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes for better grip on the polished slabs.
Bring ample water as no reliable natural sources exist near the base.
Layer clothing to adapt quickly to shifting alpine temperatures.
Over 15 quickdraws recommended to clip all bolts comfortably throughout the two pitches, ensuring continuous protection on the slab and steeper friction moves.
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