HomeClimbingWest Buttress

West Buttress

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
mixed terrain
snow travel
scrambling
glacier approach
alpine day trip
Length: 1312 ft
Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
West Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The West Buttress offers a classic alpine climb on Sky Pilot Mountain, blending straightforward snow and rock terrain for an accessible yet engaging route. Early season snow accelerates the approach, making it a popular choice for a dynamic day trip with sweeping mountain vistas."

West Buttress

The West Buttress stands as the go-to ascent on Sky Pilot Mountain, offering climbers a straightforward but rewarding alpine experience. Beginning in the broad, open expanse of the Stadium Glacier's northwest basin, this route is a true gateway into the heart of Squamish’s alpine environment. Early season trips benefit from lingering snow that speeds approach and descent, turning what could be a lengthy trek into a swift, energized day in the mountains. Climbing begins with a straightforward rise up the west ridge where a brief 4th class rock step tests attention and balance before leading climbers around a dominant tower on the ridge’s crest. Head east along broken terrain on the south side, keeping an eye on the intricate chimney-gullies that mark the next section — a moment that blends steady scrambling with thoughtful route-finding at a 3rd class level.

The ascent continues as you skirt past the tower’s summit ridge and confront a second steeper tower obstructing the path toward the peak. The recommended move is to drop to the right, navigating around the tower’s southern edge until meeting a gully that climbs consistently toward the high gap separating the tower from the summit slope. Here, the terrain softens, inviting a final few minutes of scrambling which culminates in reaching the summit. The views from here reward the effort clearly: vast mountain ranges stretch outward, the air feels sharp and fresh, and the quiet hum of the alpine landscape surrounds you.

Descent requires retracing your steps, grounding your experience back across the same route. Preparation is key: crampons and an ice axe are essential tools, especially earlier in the season when snow and ice are still present. The route, while mainly non-technical, demands steady footing and respect for alpine conditions — sudden weather changes and icy patches can amplify the challenge. For aspiring alpinists, West Buttress delivers not only a peak bagging opportunity but a perfect introduction to mixed terrain climbing with a balance of rock and snow travel that tests physical endurance and tactical judgment.

Whether it’s your first trip or one of many into British Columbia’s wild core, this climb blends solid alpine technique with scenic exposure and a moderate level of challenge. Adequate footwear for snow and rock, timing your ascent in daylight hours, and carrying layered clothing to adjust to shifting temperatures will keep your approach comfortable and safe. The West Buttress route stands ready to test and reward with a manageable length and a direct path to some of the region’s purest mountain views.

Climber Safety

Watch for icy sections near the rock step and in the chimneys; an ice axe and crampons are crucial. Weather can turn fast at elevation, and the descent retraces the same route, so ensure good daylight availability and stable footing to avoid slips.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Snow, Alpine
Pitches1
Length1312 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid afternoon weather shifts common in alpine zones.

Wear sturdy boots compatible with crampons to secure footing on mixed snow and rock.

Be prepared for a short 4th class move; confidence in scrambling enhances the experience.

Carry layers as temperatures vary rapidly; wind exposure is significant near the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
4th Easy Snow
Quality
Consensus:The 4th Easy Snow rating suggests a route that is accessible to climbers familiar with basic alpine travel and scrambling. While not technically demanding, the crux moments include negotiating the brief rock step and chimney-gullies, which add a bit of variety to an otherwise steady ascent. Compared to local routes, West Buttress feels approachable but requires respect for snow travel and glacier terrain, making it perfect for intermediate mountaineers.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes an ice axe and crampons to manage snow patches safely, especially in early season conditions where ice lingers on the ridge and glacier approaches.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of West Buttress and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

mixed terrain
snow travel
scrambling
glacier approach
alpine day trip