"We Are All Pawns tests crack climbing skills on a compact 70-foot pitch beneath a large boulder on Vagmarken Hill’s north face. With thin cracks, sloping ledges, and delicate face climbing, this trad route offers a precise, engaging challenge in the heart of Joshua Tree."
We Are All Pawns greets climbers with a potent blend of technical crack climbing and nuanced face moves, set against the raw sandstone of Joshua Tree’s Vagmarken Hill North Face. This single-pitch trad route begins about 40 feet to the right and above the popular English Opening, just beneath a commanding boulder that leans heavily against the cliff’s edge, marking the entry to a narrow gully and chimney. The climb demands a keen eye and steady hands as it launches into a challenging right-leaning crack that runs for roughly 20 feet, testing both finger strength and foot precision.
As you move upward, the terrain shifts to sloping ledges leading left, where the rock’s smoothness calls for balance and adaptable footwork. The route’s defining feature emerges next: a thin vertical crack that threads a short overhanging section. Here, the awkwardness of the corner demands commitment, patience, and mindful gear placements to find your rhythm. Reaching a comfortable stance rewards you briefly before the final push up and left along a varnished face, where smears and delicate holds offer both challenge and satisfaction.
Located within Joshua Tree National Park, this climb provides more than technical interest—it also offers the dry desert’s distinctive quiet and expansive skies. Climbers will appreciate the route's moderate length of 70 feet, packed into one pitch that feels like a compact but full-hearted adventure. The varied crack systems paired with face sections provide a refreshing contrast, pushing trad skills without venturing into overly complex terrain.
Preparation matters here. The route calls for a rack capable of placements up to a purple Camalot, so bring your long slings to extend protection and avoid drag, especially in the corner section. Rock quality, while generally solid, can be varnished smooth in spots, requiring careful foot placement and a methodical approach to gear.
Approaching We Are All Pawns means strolling into the quieter corner of the Quail Springs Area on Vagmarken Hill. The approach trail is straightforward with loose scree and desert scrub but expect some false starts if unfamiliar with the landmarks. The route faces north, catching partial shade for much of the day—which makes it an attractive option during warmer months but less inviting in colder seasons when sun exposure is limited.
Descend by carefully downclimbing back to the start; the ledges are secure but stay alert for loose rock near the base. This climb’s rating of 5.9- hints at a grade that might feel forgiving to seasoned trad climbers yet encourages focus for anyone looking to sharpen crack climbing technique. Comparisons with nearby routes suggest the grade is honest, with particular challenge in the crack’s awkward positioning and the final varnished face on thin holds.
For those eager to add a dose of desert grit to their trad résumé, We Are All Pawns sits ready—a technical puzzle framed by the austere beauty of Joshua Tree’s high desert. It’s a route that demands respect, rewards patience, and leaves climbers with a clear sense of accomplishment in a setting that feels vast and elemental.
Watch for varnished sections where footholds can be slick, and take care when downclimbing off the pitch, as loose rock occasionally litters the ledges near the base. Proper gear placement in the tricky corner is critical to avoid falls.
Start the climb roughly 40 feet above and right of English Opening, beneath the prominent leaning boulder.
Use extended slings in the corner to keep gear secure and reduce rope drag.
The route faces north, so morning climbs gain useful shade during warmer months.
Descend carefully by downclimbing—watch for loose rock at the base.
A rack up to a purple Camalot is essential, along with several long slings to manage rope drag and make smart anchor placements, especially through the awkward corner section.
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