"Route 28 in Waterfall Canyon near Pagosa Springs invites climbers into an accessible yet engaging trad experience. With a technical overhang and secure bolts, it balances steady moves with a burst of challenge on solid mountain stone."
Waterfall Canyon’s Route 28 offers a compelling single-pitch trad climb that blends straightforward approachability with enough technical pizazz to reward both new and seasoned climbers. Situated just outside the adventurous town of Pagosa Springs, Colorado, the route follows the same initial path as the nearby Burning Inside climb, launching you directly into an inviting right-facing flake system. This initial section (#0.7 cams) anchors your ascent as you work toward the first bolt beneath a small yet defining roof.
From this point, the climb shifts character as you traverse right on solid, moderate rock before entering a shallow cave—an intimate nook that adds spatial variety and a moment’s breather. Beyond the cave’s shadow, the route challenges you with an overhanging wall graded around 5.9 difficulty, positioned just left of the cave roof. Here, the rock demands precise jugs and controlled hauling, inviting climbers into a brief but rewarding overhang sequence. The holds require short reaches and dynamic movement, activating core and finger strength while keeping the momentum fluid.
Protection is thoughtfully placed with five bolts, supplemented by optional cams for those who prefer extra security. The bolts are reliable, making this a safe option for climbers familiar with moderate lead climbing. Length-wise, the pitch is concise, perfect for a half-day climbing session paired with other routes in the canyon.
Located at latitude 37.09939 and longitude -107.08857, Waterfall Canyon’s stone feels alive, weathered just right to provide inspiring friction without sacrificing stability. The canyon’s formation channels crisp mountain air, carrying the occasional rush of nearby cascades that dare you onward. Greystone walls here seem to breathe, exhaling cool shadows during midday climbs and warming under the sun’s afternoon retreat.
For climbers planning a visit, early spring through late fall proves ideal. The wall’s eastern aspect captures morning light, gradually shading as midday progresses—allowing for versatile climbing windows depending on preferred conditions. Access is straightforward via well-maintained trails from Pagosa Springs, with about 20 minutes of hiking along forested paths rich with the scent of pine and the undercurrent murmur of rushing water.
Practical tips to maximize your day: bring a rack focused on mid-sized cams to complement the fixed bolts, prepare for a brief exposure to sun mid-climb, keep hydration levels checked since shade is limited during peak hours, and consider sturdy approach shoes due to some uneven terrain leading to the base. Weather can be unpredictable in the San Juan Mountains, so layering is essential.
While the grade sits at an accessible 5.9, the route’s crux lies in the overhanging jug haul section—demanding a moment of committed movement that tips the difficulty from smooth to exciting. This dynamic feature sets Route 28 apart from more straightforward trad climbs in the area, offering a taste of overhang technique without overwhelming complexity.
When the climb is complete, descent is achieved by a short rappel that returns you cleanly to base camp. The route’s compact nature makes it a great addition to a day packing several climbs or a focused mission for those seeking a sharp burst of challenge with solid protection and enjoyable rock quality.
Waterfall Canyon remains a treasured spot for climbers who value quiet focus combined with invigorating surroundings. This route stands as a prime example of the accessible adventure waiting just beyond Pagosa Springs—where solid rock meets crisp mountain air, and every move carries the promise of progression and exhilaration.
While protection is reliable, the overhang demands precise clipping and controlled movement to avoid swinging falls. Seasonally, loose rock near the cave entrance can appear—be vigilant with placements and helmet use.
Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and fewer climbers.
Pack a moderate trad rack emphasizing 0.5 to 1 inch cams.
Wear shoes with precise edging for secure holds on the overhang.
Check weather forecasts carefully—afternoon storms can appear quickly.
Five bolts provide solid protection supplemented by optional cams. Bring mid-sized cams to complement fixed gear for a confident lead experience.
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