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Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus!

Cayman Brac, International
finger crack
sport
technical
short pitch
titanium bolts
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus!
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus! serves up a sharp fingerboard challenge right off the deck, demanding immediate focus on a 5.11d sport route along Cayman Brac’s picturesque coastline. Perfect for climbers ready to test their finger strength on a short but fierce pitch."

Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus!

Situated in the rugged cliffs of Dixon's Wall on Cayman Brac, 'Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus!' challenges climbers with a compact but fiercely technical sport route that demands precision from the start. The climb launches immediately into a finger-intensive crux just a few feet above ground level, where every hold feels alive beneath your fingertips and forces a sharp focus that leaves no room for error. This opening section isn't for easing into the day; it pulls you straight into the relentless rhythm of a demanding 5.11d move that separates the warm-ups from the real contenders. Beyond this initial hurdle, the route transitions into a sustained sequence of 10+/11- moves that, while technically challenging, flow more smoothly and allow climbers to find their groove amid solid titanium bolts that ring with confidence.

The rock here is compact and offers a clean, hard surface that tests grip strength and finger endurance, rewarding climbers who can maintain composure on small crimps and thin edges. The 60-foot pitch rises sharply against the backdrop of Cayman Brac’s coastal breeze, where the dry air sharpens focus and the sun-drenched wall invites skillful climbers to push their limits. Despite its short length, the route packs a dense dose of climbing difficulty, making it an ideal target for those seeking to sharpen their hard sport climbing tactics in an exotic island setting.

Protection on the line comes courtesy of eight titanium bolts spaced to encourage technical climbing rather than resting points, lending an adventurous edge that’s balanced by the solid gear's reliability. Anchors stand ready at the top, providing a safe and stable finish to the demanding ascent. While the route’s finger-crushing start might discourage casual climbers, those prepared for the challenge will find an invigorating test of power and precision without the need for lengthy approaches or complicated descents.

Approaching the climb involves a straightforward path from the base of Dixon's Wall, a beachside outcrop carved by wind and waves. Climbers will benefit from steady hydration and solid footwear suited to tackle both the rocky trail and the technical climbing to come. Early morning attempts are best to avoid the harsh midday sun, which can bake the rock and sap grip. Overall, 'Wait! Wait! Stop the Bus!' is a compact but memorable ascent that demands respect, rewarding those who answer its call with the kind of focused intensity that defines great hard sport routes on Cayman Brac.

Climber Safety

The crux happens just off the deck, so falling early can be tricky; make sure your belayer is attentive and your quickdraws are securely clipped to avoid any ground hazards. The rock is solid, but the thin edges offer little margin for error, so careful foot placement is critical.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun that can heat the wall and reduce friction.

Carry plenty of water; the island’s dry climate can sap energy quickly.

Wear shoes with a stiff and sensitive sole to handle the tiny crimps and edges.

Take time to warm up on easier routes nearby—this route’s crux is immediately demanding.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.11d, this climb is immediately intense with a finger-focused crux that demands a high level of power and precision. The grade feels true to standard, with the initial moves noticeably harder and creating a steep challenge before settling into sustained 10+/11- climbing. It’s comparable in difficulty to other hard, short sport lines on Cayman Brac but stands out due to its finger-intensive start.

Gear Requirements

This route is protected by eight titanium bolts and anchors that provide solid, reliable placements. No gear beyond a sport rack is necessary, though climbers should prepare for closely spaced bolts that demand continuous clipping without resting.

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Tags

finger crack
sport
technical
short pitch
titanium bolts