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Vulture Club at Castlewood Canyon: A Classic Trad Challenge

Denver, Colorado United States
trad
moderate difficulty
ledge rest
flake corner
exposed finish
Castlewood Canyon
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Vulture Club
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Vulture Club traces a solid trad line on the Vulture Walls of Castlewood Canyon, weaving through tiered cracks and ledges to a tested "topless" finish. Ideal for climbers seeking a measured challenge close to Denver’s doorstep, this one-pitch route offers steady rock and memorable exposures."

Vulture Club at Castlewood Canyon: A Classic Trad Challenge

Rising along the rugged face of the Vulture Walls in Castlewood Canyon State Park, the Vulture Club offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climbing experience that rewards steady technique and solid footwork. This route charts a path just left of the imposing roof that marks this stretch of wall, coaxing climbers upward through a series of tiered dihedrals and thin cracks framed by sharp-edged ledges. The approach to the climb is as much a part of the journey as the rock itself, with the surrounding park’s open terrain bringing expansive views and an easy rhythm underfoot.

From the ground, you begin by tackling the initial dihedral, which demands a reachy move that serves as the first test of your precision and balance. The fingers find purchase in thin cracks, while feet hunt edges on small terraces, making each move feel deliberate and earned. As you move higher, a sizable ledge looms above the distinctive roof — a natural resting spot and a staging area before the crux sequence. Beyond this platform, the climb narrows to a delicate flake corner, where careful gear placement is rewarded with confident progress.

The defining feature is the route’s finish, known locally as the "topless" Castlewood closeout. This top section insists on a controlled pull on an undercling hold—one that whispers caution, feeling hollow under pressure. The rock here is solid overall, but this particular hold can unsettle climbers who don’t respect its subtle instability. It’s a sharp reminder that even familiar crags demand attention.

Protection on the Vulture Club is straightforward but requires a well-stocked rack: nuts and medium cams cover the majority of placements, with a couple of larger cams rounding out your gear. A long sling is indispensable for extending anchors, particularly for securing to a tree at the summit. This attention to solid protection routes ensures that safety is never compromised, supporting both the confidence and flow of the climb.

Castlewood Canyon itself is a gem just a short drive from Denver’s outskirts, offering climbers the benefit of solid rock, desert air, and an accessible yet wild environment. The Vulture Walls stand out as an inviting entry into traditional climbing in the area, balancing exposure with approachable moves. It’s a climb that may not dazzle with extreme difficulty, but its length, placement, and classic features make it a rewarding goal.

Timing your ascent in the morning or later afternoon is wise to avoid the peak sun hours when the rock can bake. In cooler seasons, the wall’s south-facing orientation complements the low-angle sun, often providing gentle warmth without excessive heat. Approach times are relatively short, with accessible trails winding through open scrub and sparse trees, minimizing brush encounters and easing pack loads.

Safety is key, especially around the crux hold at the top. Double-check placements above the roof and be cautious on the ledge, which can feel exposed with some loose rock around. Downclimbing options from the top are limited, so plan to rappel using extended slings for a clean descent.

For those ready to place solid gear, move with deliberate focus, and finish strong on a classic Colorado sport-trad hybrid, the Vulture Club is a satisfying climb that blends practical challenges with an undeniably scenic panorama. It’s a route that invites climbers to engage directly with rock and rhythm—where every move and placement counts in a quiet conversation with the wall.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the undercling hold just below the top—it sounds hollow and feels loose, making it a potential fall hazard. Ensure all gear is well seated, particularly on and above the roof ledge. Loose rock around the ledge requires attentive foot placement.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Check the undercling hold near the top carefully—it's known to be hollow and loose.

Aim to climb in morning or late afternoon to avoid intense sun on the south-facing wall.

Use a long sling to extend anchor placements and reduce rope drag at the summit.

Downclimb is difficult; plan on rappelling from the top using solid anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8-
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8-, Vulture Club sits comfortably in the lower intermediate trad range. The grade feels quite approachable overall, with most moves straightforward and the crux limited to a reachy start and a technical top pull on a questionable hold. Compared to other Castlewood routes, it isn’t overly stiff but demands good gear placement skills and composure on the finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack with nuts and medium cams, including a couple of large cams for wider placements. A long sling is essential for building anchors off a tree at the top. Expect solid pro opportunities but be prepared to manage tricky placements near the flake and ledge areas.

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Tags

trad
moderate difficulty
ledge rest
flake corner
exposed finish
Castlewood Canyon