HomeClimbingvrAin't No Big Thing

vrAin't No Big Thing: A Direct Variation on Vrain Dead

Lyons, Colorado United States
trad crack
moderate
single pitch
pine tree anchor
scramble descent
slabby feet
linked routes
Length: 130 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
vrAin't No Big Thing
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"vrAin't No Big Thing serves up a seamless trad variation in South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, combining moderate moves with a continuous flow of climbing. This 130-foot pitch offers smart protection and an intriguing mix of crack systems under a pine tree, perfect for climbers looking to link lines with minimal fuss and solid rock."

vrAin't No Big Thing: A Direct Variation on Vrain Dead

vrAin't No Big Thing carves a mostly moderate and sustained line in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado, offering climbers a straightforward yet engaging experience along a rarely documented route. This single-pitch climb, approximately 130 feet high, gently links existing established routes while introducing roughly 10% new terrain that blends seamlessly into the crag’s rhythm. Starting from the same 5.9- variation on Red Fox, you move beneath a sturdy juniper tree, feeling the rough bark brush close as you step left into a left-facing corner, climbing about 20 feet to its top. Rather than crossing left on the ledge to join Red Fox’s familiar cracks, vrAin't No Big Thing breaks up and right, where you navigate through stacked, stable blocks into the main right-facing corner at the center of this wall.

The climb gains character here, with a well-sized pine tree (roughly 22 inches in circumference) growing from the corner’s face. Sling this tree with a long loop to reduce rope drag and continue past to the top of this corner section (rated 5.8+). Protection is delicate but reliable, requiring a few solid placements as you move up a thin crack set into a slab beneath a bulky roof feature. Moving carefully, place cams in the 2 to 2.5-inch range on extended slings to mitigate line friction before reaching a horizontal crack.

From this point, you traverse right beneath the overhanging bulge on slabby feet, utilizing firm handholds that anchor your movement, before intercepting the top crack of the adjacent Vrain Dead route on the left. The climb finishes with easier terrain (5.7) as you negotiate the bulge with some small cams or stoppers protecting your moves until you arrive at a two-bolt anchor perched atop the crag.

Descending requires a careful rappel, ideally with a 70-meter rope to make it in a single shot, but rappelling to a right-side ledge and scrambling down is a viable option if your rope is short. The line’s blend of moderate climbing and interesting route-finding keeps it accessible yet invigorating, especially for climbers familiar with the subtle nuances of trad climbing’s balance between protection and fluid movement.

This variation shines for those wanting a connected experience that challenges your gear placement skills and movement judgment while avoiding overly technical cruxes. The rock is solid and offers a consistent texture, with the pine tree and varied crack systems giving the route distinct character. Timing your climb during morning hours is ideal to avoid direct afternoon sun on the steep, southeast-facing wall.

Gear-wise, a single set of nuts complemented by cams up to 3 inches is sufficient, with longer slings recommended to ease drag around the zig-zag sections. The approach is straightforward, taking a well-trafficked trail into the South Fork area before a brief scramble to the base. This climb is a practical choice for trad climbers looking to explore unique lines that feel fresh without demanding extreme difficulty.

From the quiet forest edge to the sun-dappled slab under your feet, vrAin't No Big Thing invites you to engage with the rock’s subtle dialogue. It’s a hands-on experience, demanding both focus and a light touch, rewarded by confident moves and a satisfying summit view of the St. Vrain Canyons landscape.

Climber Safety

Take care around the stacked blocks heading into the main corner; although stable, some sections can shift slightly underfoot. The descent rappel requires a full 70m rope for a direct drop; partial rappels lead to exposed scramble sections that demand good footing and attention.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length130 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the southeast-facing wall.

Bring long slings for the pine tree and horizontal crack to avoid rope drag.

Carry a 70m rope if you want to rap directly to the ground in one go.

Watch for loose stacked blocks when moving up right from the Red Fox start.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating feels approachable yet offers a touch of variety through thin crack climbing and a short bulge section. The line leans toward the softer side of this grade, with most crux moves well protected and sustained but never overly strenuous. Compared to nearby Red Fox, it provides a slightly more direct, continuous experience without sudden difficulty spikes.

Gear Requirements

A single set of nuts paired with cams ranging from small to 3 inches covers the protection needs. Long slings are essential to reduce rope drag through the rightward zig-zagging sections. A 70-meter rope enables a one-pitch rappel back to the ground, though two shorter rappels are also possible with less rope length.

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Tags

trad crack
moderate
single pitch
pine tree anchor
scramble descent
slabby feet
linked routes