Virgin Soil at The Smoke Bluffs in Squamish offers a compelling challenge for trad climbers craving technical hand and finger crack climbing set against the rugged coastal backdrop of British Columbia. The route kicks off with a deceptively demanding hand crack occupying the first third of the pitch. This section tests both strength and finesse as you navigate the tight, slightly awkward placement opportunities. Beyond this, a commanding blocky roof marks the route’s distinctive feature. Climbers can choose to tackle the roof head-on on the right side or skirt around it on the left, each option requiring careful footwork and commitment. Once past the roof, Virgin Soil unfolds into an inviting finger crack that climbs the main face, demanding precise jams and smooth transitions over a subtle bulge—a move that many find to be the real crux of the climb. Although the guidebook lists this pitch as 22 meters, adventurous climbers seeking more mileage can continue on easier cracks extending toward the top of the crag for nearly double that length, up to 40 meters.

Set in the Smoke Bluffs, a legendary climbing destination known for its granite walls and exposed cracks, Virgin Soil blends technical demands with an immersive wilderness experience. The granite’s texture offers solid friction, but the route’s placement options and variable crack sizes call for a well-rounded rack. Bringing a full set of cams and nuts up to #3 C4 ensures security through the diverse protection challenges from wide to finger cracks. The climb sits at a 5.10c rating that feels faithful to its grade, featuring a sharp crux that pushes beyond straightforward crack climbing but remains rewarding for those prepared to engage with its nuances.

Squamish’s marine temperate climate means this climb is best approached in spring through early fall, where stable weather and mild temperatures keep the rock dry and grippy. Early morning starts help avoid any afternoon heat buildup as the route captures sun across much of the day on its east-facing wall. Approaching Virgin Soil involves a well-marked trail through forested sections that maintain a generous mix of shade and sun, balancing comfort during the walk-in.

Whether it’s your first foray into crack climbing or your next step toward more committing trad lines, Virgin Soil delivers a compact but complete climbing experience. It demands focused technique, sound gear management, and respect for the rock’s natural flow. Preparedness extends beyond climbing moves too—bring ample water, confirm weather conditions, and prepare for the rugged mountain environment. The descent is straightforward but requires attention, with a short walk-off down the hillside that maintains the remote feel while allowing a safe retreat.

For climbers aiming to push their limits in a true climbing hotspot, Virgin Soil provides an unforgettable mix of adventure, technical challenge, and natural beauty.