Variante de Medley offers a focused and invigorating sport climbing experience just outside the town of Sérénité in Lanaudiere, Quebec. This single-pitch route stretches 100 feet over solid rock that demands precise footwork and mental composure. Unlike its neighboring climb, Variante de Medley bypasses the low crux, steering you toward a steadier, balancy slab section that tests your control and balance rather than sheer power. You’ll find the climbing rhythm here invites concentration as the stone subtly shifts under your fingertips, each hold an invitation to steady your body and move deliberately upward.

After mastering the slab’s tension, reserve your strength for the route’s finish, where a more physical exit awaits. The transition challenges your endurance, asking for a final push as you near the top. The twelve fixed bolts are placed at consistent intervals, offering reliable protection that lets you focus fully on movement without distraction. The placement creates a secure line but doesn’t shy away from exposing you to the natural demands of the rock face.

The approach to the climb is straightforward and accessible, making this a great choice for climbers seeking a quality sport pitch in Lanaudiere without a long hike or complex access. The rock here feels alive beneath your palms, its angles and texture engaging both novice and experienced climbers looking for a moderate challenge. While the route avoids the trickier low crux of its neighbor to the right, the slab section demands technical footwork and balance rarely found in easier climbs.

Expect solid anchoring and a confident flow from start to finish. Given the 5.10+ rating, the route sits comfortably in the intermediate range but includes enough subtle challenges to keep things interesting. This is a climb that rewards thoughtful movement as much as physical ability. Bring climbing shoes with excellent edging capabilities and a light rack tailored for sport climbs, as the twelve bolts make natural protection minimal but straightforward.

In summary, Variante de Medley is a precise, balance-oriented climb with a rewarding physical finale. It’s an ideal route for those wanting to stretch their skills on quality Quebec stone without the intensity of more aggressive crux sequences. Whether you’re topping out after a day of multiple pitches or stepping into your first sport climbs in the region, this route offers a blend of mental focus and physical engagement that leaves you grounded in the rock and eager for your next ascent.