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US 34 Bypass at Bridge Wall North: A Hands-On Trad Challenge in Big Thompson Canyon

Estes Park, Colorado United States
crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
smearing crux
roof feature
big thompson canyon
colorado trad
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
US 34 Bypass
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"US 34 Bypass is a concise, hands-on trad climb located on Bridge Wall North’s Practice Rock in Big Thompson Canyon. Featuring a broken crack with a technical crux on smearing slab, this route serves great protection and a straightforward anchor setup, ideal for those honing their crack skills in a tranquil Colorado setting."

US 34 Bypass at Bridge Wall North: A Hands-On Trad Challenge in Big Thompson Canyon

Just over a mile west of the Beige Siphon tube in the Narrows section of Practice Rock, the US 34 Bypass offers climbers a compact yet engaging trad test on Bridge Wall North. This single-pitch route spans about 50 feet up a broken, vertical crack that demands a balanced approach blending precise jamming with confident edging. As you move up, the crack's width varies—starting with jamming sequences that reward steady hand placements and solid footwork, before reaching a distinctive small roof feature that sets the stage for the crux. To overcome the crux, climbers must reach left from the roof and smear up a clean, slightly overhanging face, testing balance and slab technique before arriving at a comfortable stance protecting the final easy run to the anchors.

The climb’s protection is reliable for those bringing a rack stocked with small nuts and cams, plus a couple mid-sized cams in the 2 and 3-inch range to cover the trickier sections. The rock is solid with decent edges and well-defined gear placements, making it a solid option for trad climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills without extreme risk. The grade of 5.9- suggests a moderate challenge, with the crux requiring thoughtful movement rather than raw power.

Bridge Wall sits in Big Thompson Canyon’s Estes Park Valley, an area known for its dramatic geology and accessible climbing near Colorado’s high alpine terrain. The climb faces west and benefits from afternoon sun in warmer months, making early spring and late fall ideal to avoid the midday heat while still enjoying dry conditions. Approaching the wall involves a short hike from the Narrows, crossing forested terrain dotted with lodgepole pines that frame the canyon’s rugged cliffs. This quiet slice of the canyon feels removed from the busier core areas, lending a peaceful vibe to the outing.

For planning, arrive with lightweight trad gear and headlamps if sunrise or sunset climbs are in your sights. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must given the smearing required at the crux, and hydration is key—stream sources nearby can be seasonal, so bring extra water on dry days. The top-rope anchors are straightforward to set up if you prefer an easier option or are guiding less experienced climbers.

In essence, US 34 Bypass blends technical crack climbing with slab movement, set against the striking backdrop of Big Thompson’s granite walls. It provides a practical yet rewarding climbing experience, challenging technique and patience rather than brute strength. Whether you’re tuning crack jams or easing into wider hand jams, this route is a worthwhile spot for climbers aiming to expand their trad repertoire with manageable exposure and solid protection.

Climber Safety

Though protection is generally reliable, take care placing cams near the roof where gear placements tighten. The rock is solid but keep an eye on foot placements during the crux smear, as the face can become slippery if wet or dusty.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Approach via The Narrows trail from Beige Tube—expect roughly 20 minutes on uneven, forested terrain.

Ideal climbing conditions occur in spring and fall to avoid Colorado’s midday heat on the west-facing wall.

Use sticky-soled shoes for confident smearing at the crux on the left face beyond the roof.

Bring extra water as nearby streams may be dry depending on season.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating comfortably fits the route’s mixed demands: steady crack jams, solid protection, and a technical smearing crux that pushes balance over brute force. The grade feels accessible yet engaging, typical of many trad lines in the Big Thompson area, offering a forgiving introduction to vertical crack climbs with a subtle escalation at the roof transition.

Gear Requirements

A rack focused on small nuts and cams offers the best protection, with key placements at the crack and roof. Bringing 2-inch and 3-inch cams rounds out gear needs, and a top-rope setup is easily established at the anchors.

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Tags

crack climbing
trad gear
single pitch
smearing crux
roof feature
big thompson canyon
colorado trad