"This short chimney slice carves a tight pathway between Peña de Bernal's upper and lower walls. Its confined angles and an awkward top stretch challenge climbers to move with precision, while a nearby tree anchors safety for both ascent and descent."
Carved sharply into the rugged landscape of Peña de Bernal, the "Up or Down Chimney" marks a distinct divide between the mountain’s upper and lower faces. This narrow chimney, stretching just 25 feet, demands respect not for its height but for its awkward approach and strategic challenge. The chimney’s walls press close, creating a confined vertical corridor where precise footwork and careful body positioning rule the movement. Climbers often find themselves negotiating this passage with backpacks in tow, a factor that amplifies the subtle difficulty near the top where awkward moves can catch you off guard.
The chimney’s location on the west face places it in the shadow of the afternoon sun, offering cooler conditions for much of the day. This orientation also cues adventurers to time their ascent or descent for mid-morning or late afternoon, avoiding the strongest midday light and heat. The rocky texture here is solid, yet the route’s brevity means every move counts. Instead of a long sustained effort, the challenge boils down to mastering the chimney’s cramped angles and anticipating the awkward exit.
Protection is straightforward, making this climb a practical stop for trad enthusiasts eager to sharpen their chimney technique without a lengthy commitment. A sturdy tree near the top serves as a reliable anchor point for belays or rappels, providing a secure lifeline whether you’re heading up or choosing to downclimb this feature. This tree is the route’s natural safeguard, invaluable in a setting where retreat or safe descent might be necessary.
Approaching the chimney is easy to manage via a well-trodden trail that curves gently around the feature, minimizing any tricky terrain. Climbers are advised to scout the chimney from above where the tree anchor is visible and to prepare for a short but technical segment that can feel more demanding when carrying extra gear. Because of the chimney’s tight squeeze and the potential for slippage near the top, a careful, deliberate pace pays off.
While not the most imposing line at Peña de Bernal, this chimney acts as a connector between climbing zones, providing a practical route option that blends a bit of technical skill with accessible climbing. It’s the sort of feature that quietly tests your balance and composure, and rewards you with a satisfying sense of negotiation through a natural rock crevice that carries its own subtle pulse of adventure.
Care near the chimney’s upper exit is crucial; limited footholds combined with pack interference can increase the risk of slips. Always double-check the stability of the tree anchor before committing to rappels or belays.
Scout the tree anchor from above to plan your belay or rappel.
Avoid the chimney with large packs if possible; it becomes awkward near the top.
Best climbed in the morning or late afternoon to avoid harsh sun on the west face.
Use the adjacent trail to bypass tricky downclimb sections safely.
Minimal rack needed; key protection is a natural tree anchor near the top, ideal for belays or rappels. Due to chimney constriction, pack management is essential for smooth passage.
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