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Unnamed Trad Climb in El Escalon, Jalisco

El Escalon, Jalisco Mexico
finger crack
bolt anchor
vertical dihedral
multi-pitch
desert terrain
Length: 135 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Unnamed
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This two-pitch trad ascent in El Escalon offers a blend of precise finger crack climbing and vertical dihedrals. Ideal for climbers comfortable with thin gear placements, it provides a remote, technical challenge set against the stark beauty of Northern Mexico's volcanic rock."

Unnamed Trad Climb in El Escalon, Jalisco

Situated in the rugged terrain of El Escalon in Northern Mexico, this unnamed trad route stretches 135 feet over two challenging pitches that demand both precision and poise. The climb begins with a sustained finger crack on the first pitch rated 5.10a, inviting you to test your finesse as you ascend a slim, delicate line of rock. This narrow crack widens into a generous 3-inch seam before opening onto a ledge equipped with a reliable bolt anchor at 90 feet, offering a welcome pause and moment to assess the terrain ahead.

The second pitch intensifies with a climb rated between 5.10d and 5.11a, starting with a bolt-protected ramp that feels exposed but trustworthy. After gaining this ramp, the route turns into a vertical dihedral, requiring a blend of crack jams and face holds that challenge your technique and mental focus. This section demands careful footwork and confident hand placements, as the vertical nature of the dihedral tests your endurance. The pitch concludes at a second ledge secured by bolts, marking the end of the route with a satisfying sense of accomplishment.

El Escalon’s rocky faces here reflect the raw character of Northern Mexico's climbing offerings—quiet, demanding, and far from crowded. The rock’s texture clings firmly under fingertips, rewarding those who come prepared with thin to 3-inch protection gear. The protection placements are straightforward but require a calm, methodical approach because the cracks don’t always widen evenly, calling for a diverse rack.

Approaching this climb means entering a wild zone where the trail winds over dry, rocky foothills interspersed with arid vegetation whispering in the wind. The area feels remote but accessible, making it ideal for climbers seeking solitude paired with solid rock quality. Expect approximately a 20 to 30-minute hike from the nearest road, crossing mixed terrain that shifts between loose scree and more stable soil.

Climbing here is best done in cooler seasons or early mornings to avoid the intense midday sun on the south-facing wall. As the day progresses, the rock heats up, potentially sapping your strength and focus. Hydrate thoroughly before setting out, and pack footwear suited for technical crack climbing that provides both sensitivity and support.

Experience on finger cracks and comfort with placing a range of protection will serve you well. Those new to the area should note the anchors are well maintained yet minimal, so bringing extra slings for building backups is wise. Descending follows a straightforward rappel from the upper anchors down onto the ledges, where some loose gravel warns cautious footing. The recovery hike back demands steady footing and awareness of the changing desert environment.

All told, this climb offers an intense, technical adventure framed by the stark beauty of Northern Mexico’s volcanic outcrops. It blends the precision of crack climbing with the thrill of vertical exposure, granting every climber an opportunity to refine skills and connect with an unhurried landscape that quietly tests your resolve.

Climber Safety

While protection placements are generally reliable, the ledges at 90 feet and the top pitch require careful attention to loose gravel and small rock debris that can cause slipping hazards. Always double-check anchors before rappelling, and avoid climbing after heavy rain as rock surfaces can become slick.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length135 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on the south-facing wall.

Carry extra slings for anchor building and backups on ledges.

Wear shoes with a snug fit designed for crack climbing to improve finger jams.

Be mindful of loose gravel on ledges during descent rappels.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10d with a crux that leans into thin crack sequences and a technical vertical dihedral, this climb feels appropriately stiff for intermediate to advanced trad climbers. The first pitch feels solid at 5.10a, warming you up for a sharper, more sustained challenge on pitch two, which borders on 5.11a in difficulty due to the ramp and sustained crack climbing. Compared to local routes, this climb stands out for its clean rock and clear protection opportunities, though the finger cracks may prove tricky if you’re less confident with smaller cam sizes.

Gear Requirements

Standard traditional rack with cams and nuts ranging from small finger-sized pieces to larger cams up to 3 inches. Placement is consistent but demands attention to detail due to variances in crack width.

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Tags

finger crack
bolt anchor
vertical dihedral
multi-pitch
desert terrain