"A compact trad climb with an inviting hand crack and a sloping dihedral, suited to climbers focusing on careful gear placement and precise movement. Perfect for honing trad skills in Newfoundland’s windswept coastal setting."
Blood Bath’s Unnamed Dihedral offers a straightforward yet engaging trad climb that commands attention in its raw simplicity. This short, 25-foot pitch begins with a modest 10-foot vertical face punctuated by a well-defined hand crack to the right. As you ascend, a sequence of small ledges appears, tilting gently rightward into a sloping dihedral that steadily guides your movement. The climb balances on edges and holds that require precise footwork and thoughtful placement, especially as you decide whether to thread slightly right along the arete or finish more directly on the ledges. To the left, a progression of solid jugs climbs up and converges at the same anchor, while the right side offers a smaller set of holds that blend into a horizontal ledge and crack system, presenting subtle route variations for those exploring this seldom repeated line.
This route invites climbers to engage with the rock’s natural shape and texture, rewarding a calm approach and steady technique. The protection consists mainly of traditional gear placements, complemented by two fixed bolts at the anchor, making it a suitable climb for top roping or traditional leads. The rock’s character encourages novices and intermediate climbers to hone their crack skills and positional sense in a place that’s quiet but full of potential.
The approach to this modest wall is gentle, with easy terrain that doesn’t distract from the focus of the climb itself. Located on the Avalon Peninsula in Newfoundland, the area offers a rugged coastal setting where the elements shape the climbing experience. It’s a spot where the wind carries distant ocean whispers and the granite’s cool texture invites tactile connection. While brief in length, the route demands concentrated effort on balance and gear placement, embodying the rewarding challenge of a classic trad crack climb.
For those planning to visit, optimal timing leans toward late spring through early fall when weather stabilizes and seasonal wind patterns calm. The wall’s aspect captures morning light, making early starts beneficial before the afternoon breezes pick up. Awareness of local weather and tide patterns enhances safety and enjoyment. Whether topping out for the first time or seeking a low-commitment warm-up, the Unnamed Dihedral crafts an experience marked by practical climbing skills intertwined with the elemental spirit of Newfoundland’s coastal crags.
While the anchors are solidly bolted, the rock can be slick when wet and footing narrow near the arete. Climbers should be cautious of coastal moisture and double-check gear placements in the crack to avoid loose holds. The approach and descent are easy, but changing weather calls for preparedness.
Start early to catch the morning sun and avoid brisk coastal winds.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams for secure placements.
Check tide and weather updates before heading out; coastal conditions can shift rapidly.
Careful footwork on the arete section is key—trust your feet and move deliberately.
Two bolted anchors at the top simplify protection; bring a standard trad rack with small to medium cams and nuts to cover the hand crack and dihedral features. This route suits a top rope or traditional lead with solid gear placements along the crack system.
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