"Tucked away as an alternate finish to El Techo de Limites, this trad route delivers technical climbing with variable protection and a single pitch full of character. Its blend of exposed edges, old pitons, and blocky corners offers a raw taste of Xochipili Headwall’s wild Upper Tier."
Perched on the rugged Upper Tier of Xochipili Headwall, the "Unknown (Alternate Finish)" route presents a compelling challenge for climbers ready to push beyond the well-traveled El Techo de Limites. This single-pitch trad climb, rated 5.10c PG13, demands both technical skill and a careful eye for gear placements as you navigate a wall that hints at history through its worn pitons and ancient cracks. The ascent begins by retracing the first crux of El Techo de Limites — a demanding section where protection feels sparse and gear reliability is tested. After this, the route veers left to a modest stance, an opportunity to pause and recalibrate. From here, a short but engaging face climb awaits, peppered with medium-sized cam placements to keep you anchored in safety. An old piton marks the path but don't count on it fully; solid placements in the finger-sized zone are essential.
Approaching the ledge, the route opens into a blocky corner that transitions into a short traverse left. This final bit tests balance and route reading as you move towards the top of the sharp arete. The approach spotlights varied terrain—from thin cracks to airy edges—that demands attention and respect.
Climbers with a taste for routes off the beaten track will appreciate the raw nature of this ascent, where protection is a mix of nuts, cams (up to a #3 Camalot), and a few long slings for tricky placements. The gear here is not generous but sufficient if you trust your instincts and place carefully. The anchor at the summit serves as a solid belay point and starting place for your second if you bring one.
Descending means scrambling down to the top anchors of Xochipili and rappelling carefully. The descent requires vigilance—loose rock and uneven terrain necessitate cautious footing to avoid slips.
The setting near Mexico City offers a climb that feels surprisingly remote despite its proximity to urban life. The rock’s texture, weathered by time and elements, carries the story of climbers before, while the steady wind carries voices of the highland forest below. Timing your climb for early morning or late afternoon provides favorable temperatures and golden light playing across the face, reducing heat and improving grip.
This route invites climbers who seek a fusion of history, technical moves, and a taste of adventure within Central Mexico’s landscape. Proper preparation is key—bring a solid trad rack, check your placements carefully, and prepare for the variable protection and rock quality. For those looking to extend their day, the surrounding tier offers additional climbs and features worth exploring, rewarding the adventurous spirit with fresh lines and compelling terrain.
Expect loose rock near the summit and on the approach to anchors; placements can be tricky and some pitons are old or questionable—prioritize solid cam and nut placements. The descent involves a scramble with potential for loose footing, so move deliberately and use rappel anchors safely.
Start early to avoid midday heat and secure better friction on the rock.
Double-check piton placements; many are old and less reliable.
Bring a full rack up to #3 Camalot with doubles in the smaller sizes for optimal protection.
Descend with caution—loose rock and uneven footing call for careful movement down to rappel anchors.
Standard rack up to #3 Camalot, including doubles on finger sizes; a solid set of nuts or RP's and several long slings are essential to protect tricky sections and extend runners.
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