"Under the Boardwalk commands attention with its raw, loose lower section and confident face climbing above. This single-pitch trad route in Boulder Canyon offers a gritty challenge, requiring secure gear and steady nerves for a rewarding ascent."
Under the Boardwalk presents a straightforward yet gritty trad climbing experience carved into Boulder Canyon's rugged heart. This single-pitch route, standing around 65 feet, threads its way through a prominent gully and dihedral, wedged between the established cracks known as Fly Swatter and New Fanatic. From the moment you step off the trail, you’re met with a raw, unpolished wall where loose blocks remind you of the mountain’s ever-shifting nature, demanding a steady hand and cautious footwork.
The climb kicks off navigating some unstable rock in the lower section before veering right onto a more solid face as you gain height. Placement is key here, and a good yellow C3 cam becomes a trusted ally along the way, providing security in the transition from loose terrain to more sustained climbing. The route gradually moves up and right to catch the ridge’s arete, a defining feature that offers exposed moves and a clear path to the top.
Protection calls for a solid rack of large stoppers and cams, ranging from red C3 pieces to a #5, ensuring you can confidently manage the variable rock quality. While the route’s rating of 5.8-R signals an approachable difficulty for experienced climbers, the loose lower section elevates the need for vigilance and deliberate gear placement.
The approach to Under the Boardwalk is part of the adventure itself. Boulder Canyon trails bring you close to the climb with a short, manageable hike. The canyon's high-desert character emerges in the cracked granite and sparse vegetation, while the crisp mountain air carries distant rockfall sounds, underscoring the wild environment you’re stepping into. After topping out, an easy walk-off trail delivers you back to the base, a relief for tired arms but a chance to reflect on the crack’s raw texture and demanding nature.
Despite its modest star rating, Under the Boardwalk is a worthy choice for climbers seeking a no-frills traditional experience with a bit of edge. It’s a route that rewards respect for the rock and a steady approach, making this climb a memorable highlight in Boulder’s climbing circuit. Whether you’re leading with trusted gear or following to soak in the natural details, the climb demands full attention and offers a taste of the canyon’s gritty personality.
Loose blocks in the lower section pose rockfall hazards—keep your helmet secure and communicate clearly with your partner. The route’s R rating means runout sections exist, so maintaining focus on gear placement is critical to avoid serious falls.
Be cautious of loose rock in the lower gully; test all holds and placements carefully.
Carry a rack with larger cams, including red C3 through #5.
Approach is short but steep; sturdy, grippy shoes will help on loose terrain.
Plan to climb in dry conditions to avoid additional rock instability.
A rack that includes large stoppers and cams from red C3 up to #5 is essential. You'll want to place gear carefully, especially in the loose lower section, and a yellow C3 cam was especially useful on the upper face.
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