HomeClimbingUn Coño

Un Coño at Cerro Las Tetas: Technical Sport Climbing in Puerto Rico

Cayey, Puerto Rico
thin slab
technical
sport
steep slab
well-protected
single pitch
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Un Coño
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Un Coño offers a captivating, technical slab climb on the steep faces of Cerro Las Tetas. With its demanding crux and well-placed bolts, it’s an essential challenge for climbers looking to test precise movement in Puerto Rico’s lush setting."

Un Coño at Cerro Las Tetas: Technical Sport Climbing in Puerto Rico

Un Coño stands as a striking challenge on the steep slab of Cerro Las Tetas in Cayey, Puerto Rico. This single-pitch sport climb demands precision and poise, unfolding over 70 feet of thin, technical moves that test your finger strength and mental focus. From the base, the wall tilts sharply, inviting experienced climbers to engage with delicate footholds where balance outweighs brute force. The climb’s heart lies between the 6th and 8th bolts—a narrow crux section where seizing perfect body positioning is crucial. After pushing through this intense sequence, climbers find relief on a small ledge beneath the 9th bolt, a welcome moment to reset breathing and shake out the pump.

Beyond the ledge, the route eases into a manageable headwall, allowing climbers to navigate toward the chains with controlled movement. The climb’s protection is thorough, secured by 15 well-placed bolts anchored firmly into the rock, providing confidence throughout the ascent. The slab’s texture offers enough friction to maintain footing, but it keeps you honest, requiring both attention to detail and steady technique.

Cerro Las Tetas itself sits within lush tropical surroundings, where the air carries hints of damp foliage and the distant sound of island wildlife. The cliff faces northward, offering climbers a mix of shade and morning sun, making early starts the best bet to avoid the full heat of the day. This route's remote though reachable location rewards dedicated climbers eager to experience Puerto Rico’s less frequented vertical terrain.

For those planning a visit, sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber are a must to handle the thin edges and smears. Hydration is critical, as the Caribbean sun can build quickly over the course of a climb and approach. The walk-in path to the base is moderately short but uneven, winding through forested trails that encourage a measured pace and focus before the climb’s demands take over.

In sum, Un Coño is a compelling sport route—both a technical puzzle and a physical challenge—ideal for climbers comfortable at the 5.12 grade seeking to sharpen their slab skills while soaking in the rich, natural backdrop of Puerto Rico’s interior. Expect precision, trust in your gear, and a memorable ascent where every move counts.

Climber Safety

Though well protected by bolts, the steep slab demands careful foot placement and deliberate movement. Slippery or dusty rock can increase risk—take time to clean holds and trust your gear. The approach trail has uneven terrain; wear sturdy shoes and move cautiously.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat and take advantage of morning shade on the wall.

Hydrate well before and during the climb; the tropical sun intensifies quickly.

Wear climbing shoes with excellent rubber for delicate slab footwork.

Approach trail is uneven but manageable; take your time and watch your footing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.12a, Un Coño feels true to its grade with a demanding crux between the 6th and 8th bolts that will challenge your precision and strength. The rest on the ledge after bolt nine offers a vital pause, balancing the effort well. Compared to other regional sport climbs, it rides just at the edge of technical slab difficulty, rewarding climbers who excel in balance and finger strength rather than raw power.

Gear Requirements

The climb is protected by 15 bolts leading to a set of chain anchors, ensuring solid security on the steep slab. Bring sticky climbing shoes to navigate thin edges and smears effectively.

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Tags

thin slab
technical
sport
steep slab
well-protected
single pitch