"Tylenul on Mount Douglas’s East Face delivers a tight, technical single pitch blending sport and trad climbing. With sustained moves, a finger crack finish, and well-planned protection, this 5.11d line challenges both precision and endurance in a striking New Brunswick setting."
Tylenul commands attention on the Main Face of Mount Douglas, presenting a concentrated burst of climbing that challenges both body and mind within a single pitch. Starting with a demanding face climb, the route immediately tests your precision and strength, threading careful moves that feel carefully measured rather than rushed. This initial section demands a steady hand and sharp focus, as the rock’s texture grips your fingertips and the slightly overhanging angle asks for deliberate, controlled movement. After this opening test, the climb moves left across a ledge, offering a brief moment to collect yourself amid the vertical push.
From there, you encounter a series of bolts—six in total—with the fifth bolt positioned left on the ledge, which you’ll want to clip as you step off. To avoid rope drag, back-clean the fourth bolt, an extra detail that reveals how the route’s line threads through the rock with thoughtful structure. Beyond the bolts, the climb leads to a sustained finger crack, a natural groove that demands precision in finger locks and encourages careful footwork. The crack, narrow but inviting, provides both a resting rhythm and a technical shift, drawing you into a physical conversation with the rock.
As the crack fades, the path veers left toward the anchors, rewarding your efforts with a solid belay station and a chance to breathe before the descent. Measuring 70 feet, this single pitch packs a solid 5.11d punch—a grade that balances technical flair with physical engagement. Protection is a blend of fixed bolts and traditional gear placements up to size 0.5 BD, giving climbers the confidence to trust their pro while managing some tricky clip positions.
Mount Douglas’s East Face stands prominently in Welsford, New Brunswick, set in a quietly stunning area that melds rugged wilderness with accessible climbing. At 45.4705 latitude and -66.3474 longitude, the location is remote enough to offer genuine solitude without sacrificing straightforward approach trails. The rock faces the northeast, soaking in morning light while offering afternoon shade — perfect for cooler shoulder-season climbs.
For those planning the ascent, there’s a practical nuance worth noting: the first bolt can be stick-clipped by holding on to a nearby fixed nylon rope, a handy tip that saves energy and increases safety before the serious moves begin. This attention to detail in the route’s setup shows how the line respects climbers’ needs while maintaining a challenging stance. With only two recorded votes averaging 3.5 stars, Tylenul remains a discovery for many, its combination of sport and trad climbing appealing to those ready to balance protection strategies with physical problem-solving.
This route demands fresh arms, solid finger strength, and a measured approach to gear management. The ledge allows a brief chance to reset, but the climbing remains physically sustained throughout. The finger crack section calls for confident technique—no hesitant hand placements or rushed footwork—while the final moves toward the anchors invite you to savor the reward of commitment. For anyone seeking a sharp, single-pitch test at 5.11d graced by the cool, fresh air of New Brunswick’s hills, Tylenul offers a precise, focused climbing encounter enveloped by landscape that feels alive with potential and challenge.
Hydration and preparation for cooler temperatures are essential, as the face’s northeast aspect can be brisk even in summer. Approach trails are moderate and well-marked, keeping access straightforward. Footwear should prioritize edging capability and sensitivity to maneuver the fine face moves. Planning a climb here means being ready to engage fully—both mentally and physically—with a line that doesn’t waste moves, offering an honest and rewarding obstacle in one concentrated pitch.
The approach left from the ledge involves careful rope work to avoid drag; ensure you back-clean the fourth bolt and use the stick-clip technique on the first bolt. The rock is generally solid but comes with some occasional loose flakes near the ledge—keep a vigilant eye. Also, watch for wet conditions that can make the finger crack slippery.
Stick-clip the first bolt using the fixed nylon rope for a safer start.
Back-clean the fourth bolt to manage rope drag along the ledge.
Expect sustained face climbing before the finger crack section.
Bring gear sized up to 0.5 BD for traditional placements beyond the bolts.
The route combines 6 fixed bolts with gear placements up to 0.5 BD. Notably, the first bolt is easily stick-clipped using the adjacent fixed nylon rope, reducing rope drag and conserving energy.
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