"Twister traces a bold diagonal crack on a secluded northern Quebec wall. With solid protection on the lower section and a mellow finish, this route offers a pure, straightforward trad climb perfect for those venturing into crack technique amidst quiet wilderness."
Twister carves a distinct path up a diagonal crack system etched into the rugged stone face of Nord du Quebec. This single-pitch climb challenges you to follow the fissure as it angles left, demanding steady footwork and careful placement of protection. The crack’s clean lines invite hands and fingers to find secure holds, while the rough texture beneath them reminds you that every move counts. Beyond the crack, the route veers slightly right toward a small dihedral where the climbing eases, providing a breather after the more technical opening section.
Protection here is mostly reliable during the initial climb — the crack provides solid placements for your gear, making it a safe bet for those venturing into trad climbing or top-rope setups. However, as the route relaxes toward the top, protection becomes sparse. This softer final stretch asks for confidence and caution; the rock’s lower angle means less exposure, but also fewer opportunities to place equipment. The anchors are well cared for, with two fixed bolts securing the belay stance, allowing a smooth transition for top rope or lead climbers.
Twister’s 60-foot length is a manageable day climb for anyone looking to explore traditional routes in this remote region. The granite wall rises directly from the forest floor, surrounded by the quiet of the northern Quebec wilderness. The approach is straightforward but remote, giving the experience a quiet solitude rare in busier areas.
Gear wise, a standard rack is enough to cover all placements — cams and nuts in the small to medium range work best to protect the diagonal crack. The climb rates a 5.5 R, with the R indicating the potential for runouts towards the top section, meaning climbers should be comfortable assessing their own limits in less protective terrain.
If your plan is to visit, prepare for cool weather and variable conditions typical of the northern climates. Sturdy shoes with good edging capability and a helmet are essential, especially given the less-protected upper section. The climb shines best in late spring through early fall when the rock is dry and the surrounding forest hums quietly, making each ascent feel like a direct conversation with the stone.
For descent, a single rappel from the bolts brings you safely back to the ground. The route’s straightforward layout and solid anchors simplify planning, but always double-check your gear and anchor integrity before committing to the rappel.
Located in the vast area of Le Sommet in Abitibi-Temiscamingue, Twister offers a concentrated dose of traditional climbing within a pristine Canadian wilderness setting. It’s an ideal introduction to crack climbing with enough challenge to engage newcomers while rewarding experienced climbers with clean rock and a genuine remote experience.
As you near the top, protection becomes scarce and the climbing eases, increasing the potential length of falls. Be mindful when leaving secure placements behind, and always inspect the fixed bolts before trusting them for rappels.
Wear shoes with solid edging for the rough granite surface.
Start early in the day to avoid cooling afternoon winds typical for this region.
Double check anchor bolts before rappel; corrosion can sometimes affect remote locations.
Carry extra slings and runners for quick anchor extension if needed.
A standard rack with cams and nuts in the small to medium range will cover the diagonal crack protection needs. Two fixed bolts secure the anchor, suitable for both top roping and leading.
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