"A concise trad climb that demands finesse and precise gear placement, Tricky Dicky offers climbers a technical taste of Murrin Park's granite with brief rests and a subtle crux near the top. Perfect for those honing their small gear skills."
Tricky Dicky offers a brief but intense introduction to Murrin Park's trad climbing scene, demanding careful footwork and precise gear placement over its modest 35-foot height. At first glance, the route looks approachable—a single pitch that won’t consume your day, but don’t mistake its length for ease. From the ground up, you’ll encounter a series of moves that require a steady hand and a sharp eye for subtle holds. The rock quality near the summit is noticeably less solid than the smoother sections below, revealing Murrin’s layered personality where solid granite gives way to more textured, sometimes brittle patches.
This climb is a study in balance between body awareness and trust in your protection. The real challenge isn’t just pulling through the moves but committing to the fiddly small gear placements that keep you safe. A well-placed 0.75 cam in a convenient pocket sets the stage, but after that, almost every piece is a delicate nut placement that demands attention. The rests in between moves provide brief recovery, allowing climbers to recalibrate and prepare for the next sequence.
Arriving at this route, you find yourself immersed in a forested area, the scent of cedar and pine brushing the air. The approach trail is short and straightforward, letting you focus on the climbing without a long pilgrimage. The midday sun casts strong shadows across the face, so timing your ascent earlier or later in the day helps avoid overheating on the rock’s warmer side. Whether you’re stepping up after a few climbs in the area or looking to sharpen your gear-placement skills, Tricky Dicky is a no-frills challenge that rewards patient, precise climbing.
Given its trad nature and gear demands, pack a comprehensive rack emphasizing small nuts and cams under the size of a 0.75. Footwear with sticky rubber is a must to navigate the smears and edges, especially on the top section where the rock texture shifts. The brief length and single pitch make it an ideal climb for a quick session or to test your mental focus before tackling longer routes nearby. Hydrate well and keep an eye on the rock quality near the top, as loose fragments can surprise.
In essence, Tricky Dicky blends a technical edge with a friendly approach. It’s an accessible route for climbers aiming to improve their gear game and enjoy the raw character of Murrin Park’s granite faces without the commitment of a multi-pitch day.
Watch for the less stable rock near the top section, where loose fragments are more common. Placements for protection are tight and require careful assessment to avoid slippage—take your time and don’t rush these crux moments.
Approach is short and well-marked—arrive early to enjoy cooler rock conditions.
Bring a comprehensive rack of small nuts and cams under 0.75 for the unique gear challenges.
Wear sticky-soled shoes to manage smears and small edges, particularly near the top.
Be cautious of the rock quality near the summit; test holds carefully before trusting them.
Start by securing a 0.75 cam in the pocket low on the route to establish your protection. Beyond that, rely almost exclusively on small nuts which require careful placement and trust. A range of small gear is essential for safely navigating the fiddly sections.
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