"This seven-pitch sport route blends steady 5.10 climbing with occasional rest pitches and a challenging crux. With its sharp limestone and exposed belays, it demands respect and rewards persistence, hinging on technical moves and pumping endurance."
Treasure of the Sierra Madre stands out as a classic testpiece among El Potrero Chico’s sport climbs, combining enduring challenges with a rewarding exposure that keeps climbers coming back. Carved into Mexico’s jagged limestone, this seven-pitch route stretches roughly 700 feet, offering a varied sequence of moves that blend technical face climbing with crack work. Starting sharply, the first two pitches settle into consistent 5.10a climbing, with the initial pitch ending atop a prominent pillar that provides a rare moment to catch your breath before the next push.
The third pitch intensifies with thin face climbing that demands precise footwork and finger strength as it edges into 5.10c territory, transitioning into a sharper crack section where jamming cuts into the skin—prepare to feel the limestone’s unforgiving bite. From there, the ascent softens briefly on the fourth pitch, easing into 5.9 terrain, a welcome but deceptive breather before the route’s true crux shows up on pitch five. At 5.10c again, this pitch is where accumulated pump becomes a real factor. It kicks off with delicate face moves leading to a roof that tests your endurance and technique. Clearing this roof is key; after you surmount it, the route relaxes, offering some relief as you move upwards.
The final two pitches bring variety but also an unexpected challenge. Pitch six drops back to easy 5.9 climbing through solid terrain, but the seventh pitch shifts gears into a 5.7 choss pile that feels out of place yet is crucial. This last pitch leads to the top of the Sense of Religion wall, perched on a sharp fin that rewards climbers with sweeping views of nearby formations like The Conundrums and La Ola to the north. Approach this section with caution: the rock here is less secure, and loose blocks can fall onto climbers below, so keep a controlled pace and avoid dislodging loose pieces.
Despite many of the belays being hanging—often uncomfortable after so many pitches—the flow and quality of climbing make Treasure of the Sierra Madre an unforgettable experience. Its relative popularity means the route sees steady traffic, so an early start is essential to beat midday crowds and capitalize on cooler morning temperatures.
Gear-wise, the route benefits from generous bolting, especially compared to some neighboring climbs like Jungle Mountaineering and Emilio’s Posse, making protection straightforward. A 60-meter rope works well; however, bear in mind that the last pitch’s length can require a mid-rope staging bolt for a smooth descent if you don’t carry a longer line. In sum, this climb delivers a balanced dose of technical moves, endurance sequences, and rewarding vistas—a must-do for anyone eager to push their limits within the vibrant climbing scene of El Potrero Chico.
Loose rock near the top pitch requires vigilance—avoid dislodging blocks that could threaten fellow climbers below. Hanging belays throughout the route offer limited comfort, so prepare for potential exposure and ensure solid anchor placement.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat and crowds.
Tape your fingers for the sharp cracks on pitch three.
Double-check anchors—many belays are hanging and can be uncomfortable.
Descend carefully; loose rock near the summit can pose a hazard to climbers below.
This route features well-spaced bolts along all pitches, allowing a 60m rope to suffice for the ascent and rappel. For longer rappels, especially on the last pitch, use the halfway bolts to avoid tricky downclimbing. Sharp limestone means your fingers will take a beating, so tape gloves may help.
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