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Trash Crack: A Raw, Committed Climb in Big Thompson Canyon

Estes Park, Colorado United States
trad crack
exposed
challenging gear
single pitch
Big Thompson Canyon
ground fall risk
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Trash Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Trash Crack offers a gritty, single-pitch trad challenge tucked between Shark’s Fin Wall and Bridge Wall North in Big Thompson Canyon. Expect sparse protection and a demanding hand crack that tests your nerves and gear skills throughout its 60-foot ascent."

Trash Crack: A Raw, Committed Climb in Big Thompson Canyon

Trash Crack sits quietly between the imposing Shark's Fin Wall and the Bridge Wall North in Colorado’s Big Thompson Canyon, waiting to test your nerves and gear judgment on a gritty, exposed 60-foot pitch. This isn’t a route for the faint of heart—its name captures the raw, unpolished nature of the climb. You’ll start by threading a narrow hand crack for about 12 to 15 feet, where protection choices grow scarce and trust in your stoppers becomes critical. The initial placements are shallow and unforgiving, often requiring nuts turned sideways and tactical feel to avoid falling into a sticky spot. Once past the first tricky section, the climb shifts right onto an adjacent face, offering a marginally easier path but still lacking secure pro until about 35 feet off the ground. It’s here, perched on unsure feet and harnessing steady nerves, that you’ll place a blind stopper among one of the route’s hardest moves.

Trash Crack delivers a gritty slice of traditional climbing where protection is sparse, and commitment is high. The crack itself is a straight shooter—upward progress depends on blending careful gear placements with your own body awareness, feeling the sharp texture of the metamorphic rock beneath your fingers. The route is a study in perseverance, where each inch gained counts toward a safer belay at the anchor, typically assembled with a couple of stoppers and webbing to equalize the uneven gear. Though the climb can feel intimidating, especially with the constant awareness of ground-fall potential, it offers a pulse-raising experience in one of Colorado’s well-loved climbing pockets.

Approaching from Big Thompson Canyon’s established trail system, the climb is readily accessible by a moderate hike that introduces you to the canyon’s rocky walls standing stern and quiet. Estes Park sits just a short drive away, making Trash Crack an achievable day trip for those seeking a dose of gritty, hands-on trad climbing with minimal fuss but plenty of challenge. Bring plenty of gear—specifically an assortment of stoppers and small cams, especially nut sizes and a #1 cam provided the placements cooperate—and be ready for a route that demands patience, gear savvy, and steady composure.

The wall faces east to southeast, making mornings ideal for climbing before the sun fully heats the rock. Summer and early fall provide the best seasonal window, balancing warmth with stable weather patterns. Descending Trash Crack involves a careful rappel; an ill-placed drop could trigger rockfall or cause difficulty due to the exposed nature of the route. Plan accordingly, double-check your anchor setups, and keep your communication tight.

Trash Crack leaves a lasting impression—not from polished holds or sweeping views, but from the raw experience of a traditional climb that tests your mental grit, your gear choices, and your ability to read the rock below your hands. In this narrow no-man’s land between more crowded climbs, the route invites those who crave a real, raw challenge. Tame nature here, but respect her demand for commitment.

Climber Safety

Gear placements are often shallow and nervous; protection is sparse for the first 35 feet, increasing risk of a long fall. Be prepared for ground-fall potential and always double-check anchor slings and stoppers before committing to moves.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Bring a full rack of stoppers and a small cam (#1) for best gear options.

Approach early to avoid direct sun on the east-southeast facing wall.

Use webbing to equalize the anchor, as fixed gear is sparse.

Double-check gear placements carefully; consequences of a fall here are serious.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8- PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8- PG13, Trash Crack leans on the higher side of 5.8 with a sustained mental commitment due to poor gear and shallow placements. The difficulty spikes where protection thins and the rock demands precise gear placement under pressure. Compared to nearby routes, it feels stiffer because the margin for error is thin.

Gear Requirements

Protection is limited to stoppers and nuts, often placed sideways due to shallow cracks. A #1 cam can complement the nuts but expect tricky placements requiring careful feel and judgment.

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Tags

trad crack
exposed
challenging gear
single pitch
Big Thompson Canyon
ground fall risk