"Tourist Trap Gully blends moderate trad climbing with gritty sandstone challenges in the stunning Garden of the Gods. This two-pitch route pushes climbers through a demanding lower section before easing into more relaxed terrain, perfect for those refining protection placement and route management."
In the heart of Colorado Springs, the Garden of the Gods offers an engaging trad climb that demands a steady hand and a keen eye for shifting rock. Tourist Trap Gully cuts through the North Gateway Rock, presenting a two-pitch route that starts with a challenging lower section: the first 50 feet require careful navigation of slightly crumbly, dust-coated stone, rewarding climbers who approach with deliberate caution and respect. This initial stretch carries a 5.8- rating, where natural protection like nuts and cams find uncertain placements on rough surfaces. Once past this crux, the angle eases, the rock solidifies, and the climb flows into easier 5.4 terrain toward the top of the 120-foot line.
The route’s two belay stations double as sturdy anchor points, favored by local fire rescue teams, signaling not just the climb’s technical demands but also its importance within the area’s safety infrastructure. While these stations offer solid rest stops, skilled lead climbers often push through the entire pitch without breaking it up, blending endurance and focus for a smoother ascent. As you climb, the canyon walls rise sharply, channeling the scent of dry pine and red sandstone dust through the air, while the sunlight plays across rugged surfaces, shifting shadows that reveal the rock’s texture and imperfections.
Tourist Trap Gully’s location within the busy Garden of the Gods park means that adventurers balance the thrill of soloing the rock with the presence of nearby trails and visitors. The approach is short yet uneven, weaving through scrub oak and scattered boulders. Wear sturdy footwear to handle gritty scree and uneven footing. Hydration is key here since the dry Colorado air can accelerate dehydration faster than expected during a late morning climb.
Though rated modestly at 5.8-, this climb teeters on the edge of being more demanding under current conditions, especially where rock quality deteriorates near the base. Climbers accustomed to classic Colorado sandstone will find this route a solid test of protection skills and route-finding, without veering into technically brutal territory. Expect a mix of thin edges and slots for gear, requiring a discreet rack of nuts and cams that accommodate smaller sizes for the crux. The route’s exposure is minimal but enough to keep focus sharp, especially when the sun beats down on the south-facing wall.
After topping out, the return offers quick relief via a straightforward walk off through sandy paths leading back toward the parking area. Plan your timing to avoid the heat of midday, as shade is scarce on this stretch. Local climbers recommend starting early or late afternoon for optimal comfort and light conditions that reveal the rock’s subtle features.
Tourist Trap Gully invites climbers who prize the mix of moderate technical challenge and raw natural setting. It is a climb of subtle mood and steady demands, testing both physical control and mental patience, with the bonus of being set in one of America’s most iconic climbing playgrounds. Whether you’re refining your trad rack skills or savoring a brief escape from city pace, this route offers a clear, focused experience infused with the distinct character of the Colorado high desert.
Occasional loose or dusty rock near the base requires cautious hand and foot placements. Check your gear carefully before trusting small cams or nuts. Keep an eye on temperature to avoid overheating, and be mindful of the short but uneven approach trail where footing can be unreliable.
Start early to avoid harsh midday sun and to keep rock temperatures cooler.
Bring shoes with solid edging to handle crumbly and dusty holds in the initial pitch.
Stay hydrated; Colorado’s dry air can quickly sap your energy during climbs.
Approach involves uneven terrain—wear sturdy shoes and watch for loose scree.
A well-rounded rack of nuts and cams covers the protection needs, especially smaller cams and a variety of nuts for the first 50 feet where rock quality complicates placements. Two reinforced belay anchors along the route double as rescue points.
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