"Tombstone challenges climbers with a compact burst of technical trad climbing at Cypress Falls. This short, intense route demands precise gear placements and finger strength across a flowing 50-foot pitch, making it an ideal test piece near Vancouver."
Tombstone climbs from a compact base at Cypress Falls, offering a concentrated burst of technical trad climbing where precision and strength intersect. This single-pitch route measures about 50 feet, squeezing a challenging 5.11+ rating into a brief but intense experience. You’ll start with placements for small gear—cams up to 3 inches—that protect your ascent as you approach a demanding bolted crux. The crux, reminiscent of a V3 boulder problem, tests finger strength and balance, demanding sharp technique and steady breathing. Beyond this, the climb eases but remains unrelenting, requiring efficient movement to manage pump from sustained gear placements on less featured rock.
Cypress Falls sits within striking distance of Vancouver, British Columbia, blending the energy of the city with the calm of mountain-fed streams and thick forest underfoot. The route’s exposure to nature draws your focus to the sound of rushing water nearby and the firm grit of the stone beneath your fingers. Unlike longer multi-pitch climbs, Tombstone delivers a quick hit of high-quality technical climbing that suits a climber ready to push performance in a focused setting.
Approaching Tombstone is straightforward, with an access trail weaving through mossy forest floors toward a modest cliff band. The trek is gentle but demands attention, as damp conditions often leave the path slick and roots exposed. Carrying a standard trad rack with cams through the small to medium sizes is a must, along with a rope for the rappel. The anchors are fixed with rap rings, allowing for a clean descent back to base. Because the rock is relatively compact, brushing and cleaning gear carefully after wet weather ensures reliable placements.
Ideal climbing windows fall between late spring and early fall, when British Columbia’s temperate weather is most stable. Morning climbs take advantage of cool shade, keeping the rock from overheating and your grip fresh, while afternoons bring sun that warms the face but can add to pump. Always check current conditions, as wet or icy patches on approach or route can complicate the climb.
Whether you are threading small cams or negotiating the bolted crux, Tombstone demands precise footwork, calm composure, and an appreciation for technical trad climbing packed into a short route. It fits perfectly into a day of diverse climbing around Cypress Falls and offers a memorable challenge with an accessible approach.
The approach can become slippery when damp, which demands cautious footing. On the climb, small gear placements require careful evaluation to ensure security, especially following rain. Fixed rap ring anchors simplify descent, but always inspect hardware before use.
Approach trail can be slick—wear durable trail shoes with good grip.
Start early in the day to benefit from cooler rock and avoid pump.
Prepare for a sustained crux resembling a boulder problem; warm up your fingers thoroughly.
Check weather ahead; wet rock reduces friction and complicates gear placements.
Bring a trad rack with cams sized up to 3 inches to confidently protect the entire climb. Fixed rap ring anchors allow for a smooth single-rope rappel.
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