HomeClimbingToken Brits Direct

Token Brits Direct: A Steep, Technical Test in The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
balancy
trad gear
single pitch
bolted crux
granite
technical
smoke bluffs
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Token Brits Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Token Brits Direct

Trad

Squamish, British Columbia Canada

Overview

"Token Brits Direct offers a steep, technically demanding single-pitch climb in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. Perfect for climbers seeking a mix of solid holds and tricky protection, this route challenges your balance and onsight skills on clean granite."

Token Brits Direct: A Steep, Technical Test in The Smoke Bluffs

Token Brits Direct slices through The Black Zawn in Squamish's Smoke Bluffs area, offering a focused, single-pitch experience that challenges climbers with its steep, finger-friendly edges. This route unfolds over 100 feet of solid granite, demanding precise footwork and a steady nerve as you navigate a balancy, bolted crux that teases even seasoned trad climbers. The holds here are generous yet require a practiced eye to read, especially on lead, as the subtle shifts in grip change the climb's rhythm and speed. Protection is thoughtfully placed, but requires a bit of exploration beyond the obvious spots to secure effectively, adding an extra mental edge to your ascent.

Approaching Token Brits Direct, the surrounding rock frames a rugged, raw landscape where the air is heavy with the scent of pine and the murmur of distant wind through the forest. This isn't a route for the casual tick; it compels focus and commitment, rewarding those who come equipped with confidence and solid trad gear. The chain anchors at the top make for a straightforward, safe top-out.

For climbers visiting Squamish, this route sits in a prime spot—accessible yet still offering a real sense of vertical adventure. The approach to The Black Zawn is moderate, threading through well-marked paths and striking granite slabs. Timing your push to mid-morning or late afternoon maximizes comfortable temperatures, as the wall faces east and catches early sun warming the rock before shading later in the day. Footwear with sticky rubber and a good midsole will provide the balance and precision needed on the tricky sequences.

Token Brits Direct demands respect but offers a rewarding challenge for those eager to test their technique on sturdy, clean rock. Expect to feel the vibrations of each move as the granite asserts itself through your fingers and toes, a tactile reminder of gravity and grit intertwined. Planning for a secure rack with a mix of cams, nuts, and the two fixed bolts at the crux will ensure you’re prepared for varied placements. Whether your goal is to refine your onsight skills or savor the challenge in a focused single pitch, this climb delivers a sharp taste of Squamish’s trad climbing caliber in a compact footprint.

Climber Safety

While protection is solid, the gear requires careful placement beyond the fixed bolts. The ledge below the crux is modest, allowing little margin for falls. Climbers should approach the bolted crux with caution and ensure secure placements before committing to moves.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb for cooler parts of the day—morning to mid-afternoon—to avoid slick granite from sun exposure.

Carry a balanced rack with varied cam sizes to manage trickier gear placements around the bolted crux.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber and a stiff midsole to handle the technical footwork on small holds.

Approach The Black Zawn via marked trails; plan 20–30 minutes from the Smoke Bluffs parking lot.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d, Token Brits Direct feels right on the grade for a steep single pitch with a tricky balance crux. The grade isn’t overly soft, and the sustained moves combined with the need for precise gear placements create a solid challenge. Compared to nearby routes in The Smoke Bluffs, it offers a slightly more technical crux that demands clean footwork and composure.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes a full trad rack with a focus on small to medium cams and nuts, plus the route’s two fixed bolts at the crux for protection. Chains secure the top anchor for a safe belay or rappel.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Token Brits Direct and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

balancy
trad gear
single pitch
bolted crux
granite
technical
smoke bluffs