HomeClimbingToad In The Hole

Toad In The Hole Sport Climb at Bear Mountain

Moncton, Canada
sport climbing
crimps
hueco start
single pitch
small cams
bolt protected
technical
New Brunswick
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Toad In The Hole
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Toad In The Hole at Bear Mountain is a sharp 50-foot sport climb featuring an inviting hueco start and a sequence of precise crimps and horizontal holds. Its bolted line, enhanced by optional small gear placements, makes it a compelling test for climbers aiming to refine technique in a scenic, accessible setting."

Toad In The Hole Sport Climb at Bear Mountain

Toad In The Hole offers a dynamic and focused sport climbing experience on the Lower Tier of Bear Mountain, located in New Brunswick, Canada. This 50-foot route begins with a distinctive hueco—aptly named the 'toad hole'—positioned at head height, inviting climbers into an engaging sequence of crimps and horizontal edges that require precise hand placement and controlled movement. The rock here feels alive beneath your fingers, crisp and slightly textured, rewarding confident grip and fluid footwork. While predominantly bolted with four fixed bolts and two rap rings, the climb also accommodates small cams—found between the first and second bolts and at the top—adding a practical layer of protection for those who prefer some trad anchoring alongside the staples of sport climbing.

This route blends technical crimps with carefully spaced bolts, demanding both finger strength and mental focus. The approach to Bear Mountain’s Lower Tier is straightforward, making this climb accessible for a wide range of climbers seeking a single-pitch challenge with an engaged rhythm. As you ascend, the rock faces you with varied holds that invite calculated rests and bursts of movement, creating an experience that feels equal parts physical and cerebral.

Bear Mountain’s natural setting complements the climb’s compact intensity. The towering walls give way to a view bathed in northern light, with quiet forest surroundings that push the noise of modern life away. The mountain itself seems to watch over you—steady and unimposing yet firm in its demand for precision. For athletes craving a dependable day out without lengthy approaches or complicated setups, Toad In The Hole strikes a sharp balance of adventure and efficiency.

Gear-wise, bringing a small rack of cams is wise; their strategic placements provide an added margin of safety, especially for climbers testing their limits on this 5.10c pitch. A firm grip on footholds combined with deliberate clipping technique will ensure a smooth ascent. Arrive early to take advantage of cool morning conditions, as the wall catches sun in the afternoon, warming the rock and possibly increasing grip difficulty.

Whether you’re working toward pushing into harder sport grades or simply looking to enjoy a well-protected yet slightly adventurous climb in the heart of New Brunswick’s climbing landscape, Toad In The Hole delivers a succinct dose of satisfying challenge and scenic calm. Just don’t underestimate its crux: it’s a rewarding climb that asks for both focus and respect.

Climber Safety

While the bolts are reliable, placing small cams between bolts is advised for backup, as the crux includes reachy moves where a fall could result in pendulum swings. Watch footing near the start and top, as the rock can be sharp. Also be cautious of loose debris on the approach trail, especially after rainfall.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Bring a small set of cams to supplement the bolts for extra peace of mind.

Start early to climb in cooler temperatures as afternoon sun heats the wall.

Footwear with sticky rubber will help negotiate delicate crimps and edges.

Be mindful of rope drag as placements at the bottom and top can affect clip efficiency.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Toad In The Hole offers a solid challenge with a crux that demands precise finger strength on crimps and transitions through horizontal holds. The grade feels accurate and doesn’t soften the difficulty; the sequence tests endurance in a tight 50-foot pitch. Climbers familiar with local Bear Mountain routes will find it a well-balanced step up with a neat blend of bolted security and small gear placements that add complexity.

Gear Requirements

This route is protected by four bolts and two rappel rings, with room for small cams between the first two bolts and near the top for added security. Most climbers rely primarily on bolts, but those carrying a small rack will appreciate the option to place cams.

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Tags

sport climbing
crimps
hueco start
single pitch
small cams
bolt protected
technical
New Brunswick