"A powerful single-pitch climb on Montagne du Tranchant, Tite dernière Néolet challenges climbers with sustained moves and a memorable crux. Completed in honor of Jean-Claude Néolet, this route combines technical demand with a rewarding summit view beneath a solitary cedar."
Tite dernière Néolet stands as a heartfelt tribute forged from passion and perseverance. This single-pitch sport climb, stretching 120 feet along a rugged face on Montagne du Tranchant, invites climbers to engage with both physical challenge and reflection. The route follows a line once started by Jean-Claude Néolet, who envisioned this climb before his unexpected passing in 2011. Completed in his honor, the route asks climbers to honor his legacy with every hold and move.
From where the trail dips into the approach, climbers face a compact wall that quickly demands commitment. The first moves settle you into a rhythm, drawing you upward past a series of sustained sequences that test endurance and technique. The crux, strategically positioned just beyond the intermediate rappel anchor, is a defining moment: demanding control and finesse while pushing climbers to maintain momentum.
Beyond the crux, the wall eases, opening space for deliberate moves leading to the anchor under a small cedar, quietly awaiting atop the route. Take a moment here — the view stretches across Lanaudière’s quiet wilderness, carrying the freshness of the forest and the crisp scent of pine. It’s the perfect place to catch your breath, reflect on the climb, and acknowledge Jean-Claude’s enduring influence on the rock.
This route is a clean line bolstered by 18 well-spaced bolts and designed for a 70-meter rope or longer, with an intermediate rappel station that provides a safe checkpoint or bailout for ropes under that length. The protection encourages a confident ascent while demanding respect for gear placements. Expect solid rock, though the nature of the face means constant engagement; the holds rarely rest and the climb resists slack efforts.
Approach begins with a descent down a forest trail leading toward the cliff’s base, threading through dense stands of spruce and cedar that hum softly with the wind. The hike lasts about 20 minutes from the commonly used parking area, guiding climbers into a quiet stretch of Quebec’s rugged backcountry. The remoteness contributes to the climb’s intimate feel—there’s a stillness that complements the focus required on the wall.
Ideal climbing conditions favor late spring through early fall, when the wall basks in morning sunlight and remains shaded by midday, keeping temperatures comfortable. Rain can render the rock slick, so monitoring the weather is essential, and freezing conditions are best avoided due to the route’s exposed sections near the anchor.
For those tying in, a stick clip is highly recommended given the initial clip’s position and the sustained nature of the climb. Bring gear that suits sport climbing, but be ready for a few small touches that call for attention to footing and balance. Footwear with a responsive edge will help tackle the less obvious footholds while moving through the crux and sustained moves.
Descending is straightforward—utilize the rappelling station with care, ensuring ropes are long enough for a single drop or using the intermediate anchor for ropes under 70 meters. Always double-check anchors and knots as the descent carries you back down through the mellow forest soundscape.
Tite dernière Néolet offers more than just a climb; it’s a moment to connect with a shared history on the rock and a place to test your skill on a route that balances steady challenge with rewarding views. Whether you’re here for a training session or to honor a climbing figure, the experience is grounded in respect, effort, and quiet achievement.
The rock quality is generally solid, but pay close attention to the approach as the descent path can be slippery in wet conditions. The intermediate rappel station is critical for ropes shorter than 70m — don’t attempt a direct rappel without checking rope length and anchor integrity.
Use a stick clip on the first bolt to avoid risky clipping from the ground.
Carry a rope longer than 70 meters for a single rappel from the top.
Aim for morning climbs during warmer months to benefit from cooler shaded afternoons.
Approach trail crosses dense woods—wear durable footwear and tick protection.
Stick clip recommended for the initial bolt; 18 bolts protect the route securely. An intermediate rappel anchor allows for shorter ropes under 70m to safely descend or retreat.
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