"A compact sport climb on Lily Mountain’s east face, Tiptoe Through The Two Lips challenges climbers with two small bulges and technical moves close to the ground. Perfect for those honing their 5.9 skills within a well-protected single pitch."
Tiptoe Through The Two Lips offers climbers a concise but engaging challenge at the Crag of Fear, situated on the east face of Lily Mountain. As you approach this route, the rock’s texture greets your touch with the coarse grit typical of Colorado granite, promising reliable friction and solid holds. This climb demands attention from the first move, starting with two pronounced bulges—one low to the ground and another near the top—that shape its distinctive profile. The initial crux occurs just before the first bolt, testing your ability to manage derived tension close to the earth, where a well-placed spot could make all the difference for those wrestling with its 5.9- rating.
Midway, the wall eases into a series of generous holds that offer a brief recovery and a chance to appreciate the surrounding landscape—a patchwork of evergreen branches swaying in the breeze and the distant rumble of mountain life. As the route ascends toward the fourth bolt, it stretches slightly, posing a challenge for climbers with a shorter reach. Still, these moments encourage precise footwork and thoughtful movement over brute force.
This single pitch, at 40 feet, packs a satisfying mix of technical moves and accessible sport climbing for those sharpening their skills or breaking into the 5.9 range. The bolted protection is straightforward, with four bolts leading to a secure two-bolt anchor. Experienced climbers and newcomers alike can approach this climb with confidence, especially when bearing in mind its manageable length and protection layout.
The Crag of Fear itself offers a quiet setting just off of Colorado Hwy 7 in the Estes Park Valley, where mountain air is crisp and carries the scent of pine. Whether you arrive early to catch the sun warming the east face or later in the afternoon as shadows stretch across the rock, this route combines the thrill of movement with the serenity of alpine surroundings. Remember to wear sturdy climbing shoes that grip the rock effectively and consider bringing a light jacket for cool mornings.
This climb is a practical choice for those seeking a concentrated dose of technique and exposure without committing to a multi-pitch route. Its approachable challenge invites repeated attempts, making it an excellent spot to refine foot placements and develop cadence. Hydrate well, check your gear before stepping onto the wall, and take a moment at the top to savor the quiet accomplishment paired with stunning mountain views.
Begin carefully through the first bulge low on the wall, as falls here bring you close to the ground. While protection is solid with bolts, a spotter could add reassurance during crux moves. Be mindful of slick rock conditions after rain, especially near the anchoring points.
Start early to enjoy softer rock temperatures and fewer crowds.
Bring climbing shoes with good edging capability to handle the bulges.
Watch your reach near the fourth bolt; consider using heel hooks to extend your range.
Hydrate well—Estes Park’s altitude can amplify dehydration.
This route is equipped with four bolts and finishes at a two-bolt anchor, creating a straightforward sport climb setup. Bring your standard quickdraws and a top-rope setup if desired. A spotter can be helpful at the low crux moves for added safety.
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