"Thin to Win offers a measured trad climb up a fractured corner capped by a tricky chimney exit. With manageable protection and moderate grade, it’s perfect for climbers focused on technique and body positioning in a serene New Brunswick setting."
Thin to Win is a compact yet engaging trad climb that hugs a sharply angled corner beneath a subtly overhanging wall, carved into the rugged face of The Hex Wall near Eagle Rock in New Brunswick. This 60-foot route challenges you to navigate a fractured corner where the rock’s texture and cracks demand precise footwork and steady hand placements. The climb’s character emerges through its layered, broken surfaces that offer steady protection opportunities, rewarding climbers with both a sense of security and a test of finesse. As you ascend, the corner tightens, leading to a broad ledge that signals a change in tactics: here, the route shifts into a narrow chimney that tests your balance with a few deliberate, sometimes awkward moves over chockstones and irregular grips. The chimney’s tight squeeze pushes you into a rhythm of careful body positioning, requiring a #4 cam at the top for solid anchoring. Approaching the exit, the mix of rock shapes demands attention, yet grants a unique tactile connection to the stone. The Hex Wall itself sits in a quieter climbing area of New Brunswick, offering a relatively serene escape with views that open onto forested ridges and distant hills. Expect to bring a comprehensive rack, focusing on nuts and larger cams to secure protection inside the chimney and along the corner. While the climb is straightforward in length and pitch count, its climbing style leans toward a technical, measured pace rather than speed sprinting. Ideal for climbers who appreciate a blend of precise crack climbing and chimney negotiation, Thin to Win rewards focus and respect for the rock’s nuanced features. Visit during later spring to early fall for the best dry conditions, mindful that the ledge and chimney can be damp and slick in cooler or rainy periods. Approach trails are defined but rugged, descending from nearby parking areas with a short, moderate bushwhack, situating climbers in solitude that feels a world away from busier crags. Prepare with solid rubber shoes that balance sensitivity and grip, hydration, and an extra helmet as the rock can shed small loose flakes. The Hex Wall stands as a testament to New Brunswick’s underrated trad climbing opportunities, inviting adventurers ready to engage with rock that pushes them to earn each move without overreaching on gear or difficulty. Thin to Win’s simplicity is its charm—low grade but with pockets of real challenge nestled in its chimney and corner features.
Be cautious on the final ledge and chimney entrance—the rock can be uneven and loose flakes may fall. Wear a helmet and double-check protection placements, especially in the chimney where gear must be secure to avoid dangerous slips.
Start early in the day to avoid dampness on the chimney and ledge sections.
Wear shoes with good edging ability for thin foot placements in the corner.
Bring extra helmet protection due to occasional loose flakes on the approach.
Hydrate well; the area lacks easy water access and climbs can exceed an hour round-trip.
A full trad rack is essential with emphasis on nuts and cams; a big nut fits well in the chimney from the final ledge, complemented by a #4 cam at the top for solid protection.
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