"A demanding single-pitch trad climb on Minkey Wall, The Way Life Should Be challenges climbers with technical moves over blocky holds and a daring roof crux. Perfect for those seeking precision on classic Canadian granite."
Set against the rugged expanse of Minkey Wall in New Brunswick, The Way Life Should Be offers climbers an intense, single-pitch trad ascent that demands both precision and courage. This 100-foot route stakes its claim on blocky holds that invite you to trust your footwork as you transition onto the face—a defining feature peppered with a lone bolt offering a moment of security amidst the raw vertical challenge. From there, you navigate a patchwork of intermittent cracks that test your ability to read the rock and place gear confidently. The climb’s rhythm shifts as you settle into a roomy stance just beneath a prominent roof, a natural bottleneck presenting the climb’s crux. Pulling directly over this roof requires calculated strength and technique, rewarding you with a breath of relief as the gradient eases to cruisier terrain leading you smoothly to the anchor.
Minkey Wall itself projects an imposing presence, with its coarse granite demanding respect and steady focus. The surrounding Welsford area, known for sharp relief and forested trails, enhances the sense of wilderness and isolation, placing you within a landscape that rarely sees crowds. The approach is straightforward but requires awareness of uneven footing along Cochrane Lane Cliffs, where the forest hums quietly, broken by the chatter of distant wildlife and the occasional rustle of wind through the spruce.
For climbers chasing a bold trad experience that balances technical moves with a manageable length, The Way Life Should Be strikes an ideal chord. Its 5.12a rating spotlights the precision and power necessary to surmount its crux, while the blocky holds give opportunities to rest and recalibrate. Knowing what gear to carry—standard rack plus awareness of the single bolt placement—and anticipating the feel of Canadian granite will be key to a successful ascent. The route’s single pitch invites a focused push rather than an all-day commitment, making it excellent for those looking to capitalize on a clear weather window or add a challenging tick to their logbook.
Planning your day here means recognizing the wall’s east-northeast aspect, offering morning sun warming the granite, but providing shade as the afternoon cools the rock and softens the challenge. Timing your climb early maximizes grip and comfort, while the descent follows an easy walk-off through mixed terrain, allowing you to savor the experience without a strenuous scramble back.
In all, this climb embodies the spirit of adventuring on granite: raw, demanding, yet deeply rewarding. It pushes you to engage deeply with your movement, gear placement, and the environment—a dance between climber and cliff where every move counts. Preparation is simple but essential, ensuring your focus remains where it should: on the climb itself and the thrill that comes with standing atop one of Welsford's prime cliffs.
Approach the roof with caution; it requires a confident, well-planned move over a roof that offers limited rest spots. The single bolt is helpful but don't rely on it exclusively—gear placements are essential. The rock quality is solid but always check for loose blocks on the approach and the crack systems.
Start your climb early to take advantage of morning sun warming the granite.
Bring a full set of cams and nuts to secure protection on inconsistent crack sections.
Scout the roof crux before leading to plan your moves and gear placements carefully.
Wear shoes with solid edging capability to manage blocky holds effectively.
Bring a standard trad rack, including cams and nuts that fit varied crack sizes, as the route relies on gear placements along intermittent cracks. A single bolt provides a critical clip on the face but expect to rely primarily on traditional protection for safety.
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