HomeClimbingThe Vanderslice

The Vanderslice: A Gritty Trad Challenge in Pinecliffe

Boulder, Colorado United States
offwidth
overhang
granite
single-pitch
trad rack
brushy approach
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Vanderslice
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Tucked into the textured cliffs of Pinecliffe, The Vanderslice delivers a gritty single-pitch trad climb mixing subtle technical moves with an earthy, hands-on approach. This sharp 5.9- test challenges climbers with a layered route that balances offwidth endurance and overhang tactics amid a quiet Colorado crag."

The Vanderslice: A Gritty Trad Challenge in Pinecliffe

The Vanderslice stands as a modest yet compelling test for climbers venturing into the rugged terrain of Pinecliffe, Colorado. This single-pitch trad route, measuring around 60 feet, demands more than brute strength—it calls for steady judgment as the rock negotiates both earthy obstacles and technical sequences. Approaching the climb, your path cuts through a mix of loose soil and stubborn brush, setting a raw tone that contrasts with the surrounding forested cliffs of Coal Creek Canyon. Once at the base, a small overhang crowns the crux, swirling tension into the ascent. The direct line leads right over this bulge, where committed climbers wrestle with exposed hand jams and awkward mantel moves. Alternatively, those preferring a steadier, if less direct, path can shift left into an offwidth crack—its slightly friendlier holds offer respite but test your endurance and gear placement skills.

Protection calls for a rack focused on nuts from sizes 5–10, supplemented by a handful of medium-sized friends (2–3). These gear requirements highlight the climb’s mixed chamber: natural stoppers will secure the narrow constrictions, while cams offer security in wider segments. Expect placements that might challenge your confidence; this isn’t the route for casual gear setups. The rock wears a seasoned texture, its surface a mix of gritty granites dusted with soil, reminding you that nature keeps its edge here.

Located within the Pinecliffe area near Coal Creek Canyon, this route offers quiet seclusion more than sweeping panoramas. The surrounding forest guards the cliff with dense pines and spruces, their scent sharp in dry air, while the occasional breeze finds its way through branches, carrying distant bird calls. Access involves a short but unkempt approach trail, demanding good footing and attention to footing as loose dirt and underbrush compete for your balance.

Climbers will appreciate The Vanderslice for its straightforward grade—5.9- offers a moderate challenge that nonetheless feels earned amid the rugged details of the climb. It’s an excellent goal for those looking to hone crack climbing skills in a less crowded environment without sacrificing technical interest. Timing your climb for late morning to early afternoon works best, when the sun filters enough to warm the rock without baking it. Avoid wet conditions as the earthen elements quickly become slippery, compromising both footing and gear security.

Safety here hinges on respecting the delicate balance between the natural rock and accumulated soil. Sloughing dirt can threaten placements and footing alike, so slow, deliberate movement is key. Downclimbing options are limited, so prepare for a single rappel back to the base. On approach and descent, wear sturdy boots to handle loose rock and debris. Though the route may seem unassuming, it demands focus, patience, and a well-considered rack.

Ultimately, The Vanderslice is a no-frills trad climb that invites you to engage with the mountain’s less polished side—raw, real, and rewarding for those willing to meet it on its own terms.

Climber Safety

Beware loose soil at the base and around placements, which can compromise gear security. The overhang section demands careful movement; a fall here could be hazardous without clean protection. Approach and descent feature loose dirt and brush—stay vigilant for footing and pack rappel gear accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail has loose soil; wear sturdy footwear with good grip.

Climb mid-morning to early afternoon for optimal sun and rock temperature.

Double-check gear placements for dirt intrusion before weighting protection.

Prepare for a single rappel descent; bring cord suitable for 60 feet.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.9-, The Vanderslice sits comfortably at a moderate level, though the crux near the overhang adds a bit of spice. The grade feels fair with its slightly long moves and offwidth endurance component, providing a solid step up for steady crack climbers. Compared to other Pinecliffe trad lines, it leans into natural protection and less polished rock texture, making it a satisfying, grounded challenge.

Gear Requirements

Nuts sizes 5 through 10 dominate protection needs, with a sprinkling of Friends in the smaller sizes 2–3 for tricky placements. Expect natural gear requiring careful evaluation due to soil accumulation around placements.

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Tags

offwidth
overhang
granite
single-pitch
trad rack
brushy approach