The Squamish Buttress stands as a compelling challenge among the granite giants of British Columbia’s renowned climbing destination, The Chief. This multi-pitch trad route delivers a journey through contrasting terrain—starting on broad, polished slabs that demand careful footwork and gear awareness, before transitioning into steeper, more engaging cracks and corners. Each pitch invites climbers into the living rock, where the mountain seems to test your resolve with subtle shifts and protected sequences that reward vigilance and technique.

Beginning beneath small overhangs, the first pitch requires a smooth leftward traverse along sparse placements, offering a 5.8 introduction that lets you settle into the rhythm of the climb. The protection is minimal but solid, preparing you for the more relaxed climbing on Pitch 2, where the slab eases to 5.5 difficulty. Here, the terrain opens with scenic views, and your belay sits comfortably at the base of a quiet ledge surrounded by whispering evergreens.

Pitch 3 carries you around the corner, ascending easy fifth-class corners to a generous ledge with trees—a perfect spot to pause and let in the fresh mountain air. The climbing gets more interesting toward the top of the pitch, where rock textures shift, hinting at what’s to come. Some climbers split this pitch into two for a breather or extra safety.

The short but deceptively intricate Pitch 4 demands keen route-finding as you move through blocky terrain to reach a steep crack. This section requires steady moves rated at 5.9, balanced between careful placement and controlled power. The ledge you arrive at marks the threshold to the heart of the route.

Pitch 5 is the signature climb, a proud north-facing corner that rises sharply and rewards precise jamming and stemming. Protected by an old pin and complemented by plentiful traditional gear placements, this pitch tests your commitment and technique. The crux sits near the top, where the corner narrows and demands attention; a well-placed .75 Camalot above the pin eases the mental load. Reaching the bolt belay at the ledge, climbers are often compelled to enjoy a second lap, savoring the classic moves before descending.

The final pitch (Pitch 6) is a more relaxed finish, following ledges rated at 5.6 that lead to the base of Raven's Castle. From here, options abound—climb one of Raven's Castle’s routes to the summit, or circumnavigate it by foot to link into established trails. The descent by the tourist route is straightforward but requires attention to footing.

Preparation for the Squamish Buttress requires a standard trad rack with gear up to 3 inches, including finger- to small-hand-sized pieces for the crux pitch. Stoppers are useful at the base, and a .75 Camalot is recommended just above the crux pin on Pitch 5 to bolster confidence. The approach is moderate, taking climbers through well-trodden paths that thread through pine stands and granite slabs. Weather can influence friction, so morning starts and dry conditions improve safety and enjoyment.

The Squamish Buttress offers a balanced climbing experience—technical enough to engage seasoned climbers but accessible for those ready to push into 5.10 territory. Its position on The Chief places it among iconic climbs where history and natural grandeur intertwine, giving every ascent a strong connection to the landscape and community.