The Squamish Butt Face offers climbers a compelling alternative to the traditional Squamish Buttress route, carving a path that skirts the busy mainline and delivers a quieter, more intimate experience on The Chief. This two-pitch trad climb stretches roughly 400 feet, weaving through ledges and crack systems that shape the face beneath the 5.10c exit pitch. Starting with a familiar groove ascending like the Buttress before veering left into a gully, the climb combines technical finesse and moderate challenge that appeals to climbers seeking a rewarding summit push without the crowds.

The granite here is solid and reassuring, with well-cleaned lines that make placements reliable and protection straightforward—mirroring the rack requirements for the broader Buttress route. Expect a balanced mix of finger and hand cracks, with occasional wider jams that invite thoughtful gear placement. The route's protection is thoughtfully spaced, giving confidence while maintaining engaging sections that test your fundamentals.

Squamish’s characteristic coastal air plays a role, with the rock occasionally cooling under the shade of towering pines and the sound of distant waters flowing below. The route’s north-northwest aspect means mornings bring soft, warming sun that dries the surface quickly, but afternoons cool down as shadows sweep across the granite face. Plan your climb for morning light to catch the rock at its driest and most comfortable.

Accessing the climb is a straightforward approach from the established Chief trailhead parking, a ten to fifteen-minute stroll over firm forest paths and granite slabs to basecamp. The approach terrain is well maintained but can present slick patches after rain, so sturdy footwear with good traction is essential. Keep a sharp eye on footing, especially when loaded with gear. The summit offers expansive views over Howe Sound’s shimmering waters and distant coastal peaks, rewarding effort with awe-inspiring panoramas that captivate without overwhelming.

For those preparing to tackle The Squamish Butt Face, hydration is key—bring at least two liters, especially on warmer days—and layering is recommended due to rapid temperature changes from elevation and shade. The route’s moderate length and grade allow for a relaxed pace, but vigilance on placements and route-finding remains crucial. Though rated 5.9, the climb features a few moves that push the limits, particularly where the route negotiates ledge transitions and tighter cracks.

Local climbers report positive feedback, appreciating the route’s fresh line and clean rock. It’s a welcome addition to The Chief’s portfolio of moderate summit ascents—a climb that respects the mountain’s grandeur without demanding extreme technical commitment. Whether this is your first trad multi-pitch or a seasoned summit quest, The Squamish Butt Face invites you to engage with Squamish’s wild spirit in measured, rewarding strides.