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The Shallow End - A Focused Test of Smearing Skill in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
slab
sport
footwork
short climb
granite
balance
smearing
Length: 30 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Shallow End
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Shallow End offers a compact, technically demanding slab climb on Squamish’s renowned Starr Wall. This short, sport-protected line tests delicate smearing skills on clean granite, perfect for climbers looking to hone balance and precision in a sunny, scenic setting."

The Shallow End - A Focused Test of Smearing Skill in Squamish

Perched on Squamish’s famed Starr Wall, The Shallow End offers a compact yet demanding slab climb that stretches 30 feet of focused footwork and subtle balance. This single-pitch sport route sits squarely in the middle of The Malamute face, presenting a clean, mostly featureless slab that invites you to lean into delicate smears rather than rely on jugs or obvious holds. The rock itself feels alive underfoot, its granite surface challenging you to finesse every toe placement while maintaining steady movement upwards. A sparse but reliable set of four bolts runners through the line provide security without clutter, demanding confidence but never overwhelming.

Climbers will find a solid belay ledge perched above the route, offering a restful vantage point to absorb views of the surrounding peaks and the Squamish valley below. The thin, friction-dependent climbing tests precise technique more than raw power, making this an excellent option for sport climbers who want to sharpen slab skills in a well-protected environment. While the route’s modest length keeps things approachable, the subtleties of balance and smearing keep the tension high.

Approach to The Shallow End is straightforward. A well-trodden trail through sparse forest descends gently from the parking area, requiring about 10 minutes to reach the base of The Malamute wall. The granite here bakes under the sun, so early morning or late afternoon sessions offer ideal conditions, with less glare and cooler surface temperatures for better friction.

Gear demands are simple—four quickdraws suffice for clipping the bolts securely. Because the route avoids jamming or crack placements, a light rack focused on sport clip hardware and comfortable climbing shoes with sticky rubber is your best companion here. Timing your climb during dry spells is crucial since the smooth slab can become slick with moisture, which significantly reduces grip.

Whether you’re sharpening slab technique or craving a quick, quality lead within Squamish’s diverse climbing portfolio, The Shallow End delivers a concentrated dose of friction-dependent climbing in an accessible, scenic setting. The emphasis on subtle smearing fosters a quiet concentration, making each move feel deliberate and essential to staying on the wall. After topping out, a careful walk-off trail returns you to the trailhead in under 15 minutes, rounding out a short but rich climb experience in one of Canada’s premier climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Slab climbing requires calm and steady movement; rushing increases the risk of slipping on thin smears. Though bolts provide solid protection, a fall could result in awkward foot slips or low-angle drops, so make sure your belayer is attentive and your shoes fit snugly.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday sun beating down on the granite.

Use approach shoes for the trail and switch to sticky climbing shoes at the base.

Check weather forecasts carefully; even light moisture reduces friction drastically.

Take your time on foot placements—precision beats power on this route.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10b/c rating correctly reflects the route’s reliance on technical slab climbing rather than brawn. The grade feels fair, with a crux that demands smooth weight shifts and confidence on thin smears. Unlike vertical or overhanging climbs in Squamish, this route doesn’t hide any surprises in roof or crack sections, making the rating approachable but exacting in its own right.

Gear Requirements

Four quickdraws cover the bolt spacing perfectly. Sticky-soled shoes are essential for the subtle smears, and a chalk bag will keep hands dry on this clean slab. No additional gear is needed as traditional protection isn’t relevant here.

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Tags

slab
sport
footwork
short climb
granite
balance
smearing