HomeClimbingThe Screaming Cheeto Wheelie

The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie

Mission, British Columbia Canada
sport climb
5.12a
dyno
crimps
single pitch
sloper
Fraser Valley
British Columbia
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A fierce sport climb in British Columbia’s Fraser Valley, The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie challenges climbers with a powerful crimp sequence culminating in a bold dyno and a tricky crux. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their precision on a compact 5.12a testpiece."

The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie

At the edge of Hatzic Prairie in British Columbia, The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie challenges climbers with a fierce sequence that demands precision and power. This short, 60-foot sport route bolts its way up the right flank of the main wall, offering a compact yet intense experience for those chasing a 5.12a test piece. From the moment you step off the initial block, your fingers must lock onto sharp crimps as you edge leftward, setting the stage for an explosive big dyno that reaches for an open-handed sloper. The route’s defining feature is a tricky crux that forces both mental focus and physical control, rewarding those who can flow through tough moves with a heart-pounding send.

The wall feels alive here: the rock’s texture challenges your grip, the exposed positions invite the breeze to tease your skin, and the quiet of Fraser Valley below offers a steady backdrop. The bolts stand ready like sentinels to keep you safe, allowing you to fully commit to the dynamic climbing without second-guessing your protection. Whether it’s your first encounter with 5.12 or a lap for seasoned hard sport climbers, this route's combination of precise crimps and a bold dyno offers a compact burst of technical climbing that tests your limits.

Reaching the crux demands not just strength but timing—each move must flow with intent. In summer months, the main wall basks in early morning sun and then shifts into shade by mid-afternoon, making mornings ideal for your push to the top. With the route situated in the quiet expanse of Fraser Valley, access is straightforward, but climbers should prepare for a short approach across gentle terrain to find the base of this bolt-lined challenge.

Gear is simple here—draws clipped to bolts will be your trusted companions as you bait the holds. The climb is short, but the quality of rock and the intensity of moves combine to make a lasting impression. Perfect footwear with sticky rubber will give you confidence on small edges; hydration and mental preparation will push you through the crux, where hesitation can mean the difference between success and fall. Descent is a direct rappel from the anchors back to the trailhead, allowing quick and safe retreat after your send or a respectful retreat.

For climbers eager to raise their game or simply taste a bite of strong sport climbing in a peaceful Canadian setting, The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie is an unmissable plug in Hatzic Prairie’s climbing scene. Its blend of technical challenge, precise gear, and approachable access makes it a shining single-pitch highlight in Fraser Valley’s rock offering.

Climber Safety

While the bolts provide solid protection, the route’s crux includes an exposed dyno that requires full commitment. Climbers should be confident in their ability to stick dynamic moves on slippery slopers and maintain body tension over small edges. Wearing a helmet during approach and fall zones is prudent given the steep rock and loose debris near the trailhead.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb for early morning to catch the wall in full sun before afternoon shade sets in.

Stick to shoes with a narrow toe box and aggressive edging capability for the small crimps.

Bring extra chalk to maintain grip through the dynamic moves and the sticky sloper.

Approach the base via the well-marked trailhead at Hatzic Prairie; it’s less than 15 minutes on foot.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a rating on The Screaming Cheeto Wheelie feels true to its grade, featuring a tight crux sequence that demands precise finger strength and controlled movement. The dynamic big dyno adds a moment of boldness mid-route, making the overall difficulty feel coherent without stiffening beyond the standard for this grade. Climbers familiar with similar Fraser Valley sport climbs will find the challenge consistent and rewarding.

Gear Requirements

This route is fully bolted, requiring quickdraws for clipping on every move. Sticky rubber shoes and finger-strength chalk will assist in managing the sharp crimps and the open sloper at the crux. No additional protection is needed beyond sport gear.

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Tags

sport climb
5.12a
dyno
crimps
single pitch
sloper
Fraser Valley
British Columbia