The Nugget offers a raw, compelling climb for those seeking steep, technical moves on solid Wyoming limestone. Positioned just 150 feet right of the famed Cigar wall, this distinct bulge draws climbers looking for a compact but intense challenge within Ten Sleep Canyon’s Downtown area. The approach begins at a large pullout on the south side of Forest System Road, roughly half a mile past the Slavery Parking area. Here, an angled ascent leads toward a distinctive boulder, marking the start of a zigzagging boot path that delivers you directly beneath the imposing cliff band. It’s a short approach, but expect a modest scramble up loose scree and stones that demand steady footing on the way in.

Climbing at The Nugget centers around steep, overhanging lines that test strength and technique in equal measure. Though the area hosts only a couple of routes, among them the standout classic Toothless Grin (5.12b) offers a pounding experience with technical moves that can challenge seasoned climbers and inspire beginners to push their limits safely. The rock is clean, with pockets and edges demanding precise footwork and commitment. While the vertical gain tops out at roughly 150 feet, this modest height conceals the intense physical engagement required to top out this powerful bulge.

Ten Sleep Canyon is not without its access nuances. Currently, raptor closures affect climbing in adjacent areas such as Moby Dick, with active nests requiring seasonal restrictions through mid-August. Climbers should respect these closures to aid conservation efforts and maintain access. The Forest Service also enforces a freeze on new route development to preserve the existing climbing resource, with efforts underway among local groups to balance conservation with climber needs. Checking the latest updates before your trip is a must.

Climbers flock to Ten Sleep Canyon for its limestone face quality, accessible wilderness feel, and a mix of classic climbs and hidden gems. The Nugget’s pocket of steep climbing adds a distinct flavor to this diverse climbing zone. The weather runs cold in winter months, with prime climbing typically concentrated from late spring through early fall, when sunny days encourage long sends and cool shadows on shaded sections of the canyon. Bring layers for mountain temps, as elevation here reaches over 4,600 feet.

The descent from The Nugget is straightforward – climbers can easily downclimb or walk off the slope back to the base trail. Having solid footwear and a careful eye will ensure safe footing on loose terrain. Although fixed anchors are present, always carry a rope and confirm anchor integrity when rappelling.

Gear up with sport climbing draws, a rope in the 60-70 meter range for safe descent, and shoes suited for steep, pocketed limestone. Given the exposure and steep angle, strength and precision will be your best allies on these routes, with a trad rack unnecessary in this focused pocket of sport climbing. Helmets are recommended due to the loose rock on the approach and the potential for falling debris.

Whether you are cruising Toothless Grin or simply soaking in Ten Sleep’s rugged landscape, The Nugget promises a concise yet memorable climbing experience that sharpens your skills on technical terrain. It’s a spot where every move counts, set against the striking Wyoming backdrop that rewards effort with epic views and quiet wilderness. Aspiring and experienced climbers alike will find in The Nugget an authentic taste of Ten Sleep Canyon’s diverse and compelling climbing ethos.