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The Next Generation Trad Climb in Seal Cove

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
slab
trad
single-pitch
west coast
small gear
technical slab
Length: 150 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Next Generation
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Next Generation is a focused trad slab route near Squamish that demands precision footwork and tactical gear placements. Its key crux near the second or third bolt offers a satisfying challenge for climbers ready to engage both mind and muscle on a clean, 150-foot wall."

The Next Generation Trad Climb in Seal Cove

The Next Generation offers a compelling blend of technical slab climbing and calculated challenges along British Columbia's rugged coastline. Located in the vibrant climbing hub of Seal Cove near Squamish, this 150-foot single-pitch route invites climbers into a measured test of balance and precision. The rock is smooth and clean, with a key crux unfolding around the second or third bolt—demanding sharp footwork and controlled movements before the climbing eases as you approach the anchors. This route's style fits seamlessly into the local climbing fabric, drawing parallels with neighboring climbs in the area known for their commitment to finesse over brute strength.

Protection here consists primarily of eight well-spaced bolts complemented by a handful of smaller gear placements up to one inch in size, rewarding those prepared with a compact trad rack ready for subtle crack placements. The slab nature requires thoughtful route reading and steady nerve, as stances are often sparse and the holds can feel glassy underfoot. Climbers should plan for moderate exposure; though the wall isn’t overwhelmingly vertical, the sustained focus needed to negotiate the crux keeps the adrenaline ticking.

The approach to this climb is straightforward and accessible from Seal Cove, a short drive northwest of Squamish. A well-worn trail winds through open forest mixed with patches of mossy boulders, setting the tone for a day of crisp fresh air and ocean-scented breezes. The climb faces primarily northwest, offering a pleasant afternoon shade that cools the slab during warmer months. Early fall through late spring yields the best conditions, avoiding the slickness that can accompany the region's rainy summers.

For those planning their ascent, sturdy footwear with sticky rubber will boost your confidence on the slab’s polished surfaces. Bring enough water to stay hydrated, especially in warmer weather, and consider carrying tape or light gloves if you anticipate multiple attempts or are calibrating your friction. The route is well-suited for climbers comfortable with a 5.10d challenge who appreciate the balance between physical demands and strategic movement.

Following the climb, a short descent leads back to the base along a soft dirt path, requiring careful footing but no technical rappel. The surrounding area offers classic West Coast views of coastal mountains blending with the sea’s edge, inviting climbers to linger and soak in the wild atmosphere that makes Seal Cove a destination for both locals and visitors. Whether you’re stepping up to your first harder slab or refining your trad skills in a clean, scenic setting, The Next Generation provides a rewarding slice of British Columbia’s climbing culture with a practical, grounded challenge.

Climber Safety

The smooth slab surface demands careful attention to footing—any misstep near the crux increases the risk of slipping. Because protection is mostly bolt-based but supplemented with smaller gear, ensuring proper gear placement and clipped draws will mitigate fall hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length150 feet

Local Tips

Wear rubber-soled shoes designed for slab climbing to maximize friction.

Plan your climb during dry weather; these slabs lose grip quickly when wet.

Bring a compact trad rack including small cams up to 1 inch for natural placements.

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures and afternoon shade on the face.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d grade feels accurate with a well-defined crux around the second or third bolt where precise foot placements and body position critically raise the commitment. Climbers familiar with local Squamish slab routes will find this climb matches the area's reputation for technical, balance-driven climbing rather than power moves.

Gear Requirements

Eight bolts anchor the route, with a few narrow cracks allowing small gear placements up to 1 inch. A light trad rack paired with quickdraws for the bolts ensures steady protection throughout the climb.

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Tags

slab
trad
single-pitch
west coast
small gear
technical slab