The Neverhood: Steep Jugs and Technical Faces in Iowa's Backbone State Park

Dundee, Iowa
steep
technical
jugs
state park
forest approach
best in fall
bouldering
Length: 15-18 ft
Type: Boulder
Stars
Pitches
bouldering
Protected Place
Backbone State Park
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hidden within Backbone State Park, the Neverhood offers power-packed steep jugs alongside demanding technical faces. Climbers here encounter classic problems in a compact, scenic setting that holds both challenge and variety."

The Neverhood: Steep Jugs and Technical Faces in Iowa's Backbone State Park

If you think Midwest climbing is all river bluffs and scattered outcrops, the Neverhood will make you rethink everything you know about Iowa bouldering. Tucked within the thick woods along the East Lake Trail in Backbone State Park, this concentrated outcrop delivers a climbing experience that swings between muscle-burning overhangs and razor-focused face climbing, all while staying just remote enough to feel like an adventure, even for locals.

On approach, your boots crunch along a winding path leaving the river behind and threading through quiet trees. The trail is clear and gently uphill, gaining modest elevation, and after a few minutes you'll spot a tall boulder—marked by a sweeping roof that dares you to test your reach. That landmark signals your arrival. The Neverhood is split between two contrasting walls: one where steep angles and generous jugs demand full-body power, and a neighboring sweep of stone where precise footwork and steady focus become your tools. This duality gives the area a reputation as a testing ground, catering both to those seeking classic pumpy lines and others sharpening their technical edge.

It’s this concentrated mix that draws the region’s most dedicated boulderers. Standouts like Chiropractor (V3), Clawed Monkey (V3), and the ever-popular Scoliosis (V2, highly rated at 4.5 stars), hint at the area's depth. In moments, you’ll find yourself swinging from positive holds, feet scraping across tiny nubbins, eyeing the final moves while the filtered sunlight flickers over Iowa limestone. Here, every problem encourages you to commit—whether you’re pulling through the overhang of Evil Engine (V3), deciphering the crafty sequences on Skull Monkeys (V2), or savoring the pure joy of cruising classics like Klayman (V0).

Neverhood is all about engagement: the movement is physical but demands cleverness, with a surprisingly diverse set of problems for its size. The stone is solid, with landings that range from flat and forgiving to slightly sloping; multiple pads and a vigilant spotter are your best friends. The quiet of Backbone’s woods threads through the whole session—broken only by the call of songbirds or the thud of bouldering pads on forest earth.

This is a spot best visited in the heart of spring or long into the golden days of fall, when colors ignite the forest but the sun stays filtered enough to keep the holds dry and the rock cool. Summer afternoons can bring humidity, but mornings are breezy under the tree cover, and even in shoulder seasons, the approach stays easily navigable. Plan on packing your snacks and water: amenities are a drive away, letting you focus on the boulders, not the bustle.

Access is straightforward but demands a bit of attention—after the bridge area, continue a few minutes up the main path. Your signal is always that looming boulder with its wide roof. As with all climbing in state parks: leave no trace, respect the tranquility of the space, and pack out what you pack in. And as a bonus, you're surrounded by the sprawling wilds and scenic trails of Backbone, giving you plenty of room to cool down or explore beyond the stone.

Whether you’re after the challenge of steep jugs, technical face climbing, or simply the satisfaction of ticking off a handful of Iowa’s best-rated classics, the Neverhood delivers exactly what it promises—a concentrated dose of movement, problem-solving, and that unmistakable sense of discovery.

Climber Safety

Be wary of variable pad set-ups—some problems have sloping or irregular landings. Always use a trusted spotter, particularly around the base's roof feature.

Area Details

TypeBoulder
Pitchesbouldering
Length15-18 feet

Local Tips

Look for the distinctive boulder with the long roof feature to find the area.

Arrive early in spring or late in the fall for ideal sending temps and fewer crowds.

Pads are a must for some uneven landings—team up if solo.

Explore the East Lake Trail for other worthy boulder problems after your session.

Area Rating

Quality
Consensus:Expect grades that are honest and reflect the physical and technical diversity of the Midwest; problems at the Neverhood feel true to their V-grade and don't carry a reputation for being sandbagged or soft. Climbers from more urban gyms may find the technical faces a touch more demanding, while the steep lines provide straightforward, classic movement.

Gear Requirements

Bring at least two crash pads for variable landings and a dedicated spotter, especially on the taller or steeper problems. All climbs are boulder problems; no ropes necessary.

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Tags

steep
technical
jugs
state park
forest approach
best in fall
bouldering