HomeClimbingThe Name of the Wind

The Name of the Wind: A Bold Sport Climb in Kananaskis

Kananaskis, Canada
sport climbing
roof moves
boulder problem
limestone slab
single pitch
technical
powerful moves
Length: 80 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Name of the Wind
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Set against the rugged Barrier Bluffs of Mount Baldy, The Name of the Wind challenges climbers with a gritty corner, a demanding roof, and a precise boulder problem. This compact 80-foot sport route balances power and technique with stunning mountain scenery."

The Name of the Wind: A Bold Sport Climb in Kananaskis

The Name of the Wind carves a compelling line along the Barrier Bluffs at Mount Baldy, inviting climbers to engage with its mixture of gritty corners and bold roof moves. This single-pitch, 80-foot route begins by demanding careful footwork through a somewhat dusty corner, where the rock holds a gritty texture that echoes the wild landscape around it. As you press upward, the corner widens into a compact roof that challenges your strength and technique—this section feels like a natural test, urging you to commit before launching into the key boulder problem above. This move is powerful and technical; it asks for precise body positioning and finger strength to pull through.

Once over the roof, the climb offers a brief but valuable respite, giving you time to reset your focus while surveying the polished slab above. The upper section is a refreshing shift—smooth, clean rock inviting confident mantling to reach the finishing chains. The quality of the limestone here is exceptional, offering solid friction and a satisfying texture underfoot and hand.

Situated just outside the bustling town of Kananaskis in Alberta, this route balances accessibility with a rugged wilderness feel. The approach is manageable and marked well enough to encourage repeat ascents. Its location within the Cornerstone crag means that after the effort, climbers can soak in sweeping views of the surrounding foothills and distant peaks, which seem to watch silently as you push through each move.

For those venturing here, timing matters: mid-summer brings warm sun to the wall, making early morning starts ideal to avoid the heat on this exposed face. The play of light in the late afternoon highlights the contours of the roof and slab, offering both practical silencing of the rock’s glare and a visual treat. Bringing a solid rack focused on quick draws to clip the ten bolts efficiently will keep your momentum smooth.

Keep in mind, while the route’s grade of 5.12a places it in the challenging realm, the real crux revolves around that roof-to-boulder move, where power and precision meet. Those who can negotiate this section will find the rest of the climb more accessible, rewarding effort with satisfying climbing and quality rock.

Hydration and footwear suited for technical smearing will serve well here. The rock’s roughness can tax your skin quickly, so taping hands or using finger-friendly chalk is recommended. Climbers should also respect the natural environment, sticking to trails and minimizing impact to preserve the area’s rugged allure.

In essence, The Name of the Wind stands as a testing yet rewarding climb, perfectly suited for those who seek a compact, powerful challenge coupled with the breathtaking backdrop of the Alberta Rockies. It’s a route that speaks plainly to a climber’s skill set, where the rock, the movement, and the mountain meet as equals in the adventure.

Climber Safety

The route’s key roof involves strenuous moves on edges that can stress the skin quickly—protect your hands and approach with a solid warm-up to reduce injury risk. The approach is straightforward but watch for loose rock near the base.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon sun heating the exposed wall.

Wear shoes with good edging and smearing capability for the slab finish.

Bring plenty of chalk and consider finger taping to protect against sharp edges.

Approach via the established trail to minimize impact to the fragile alpine environment.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.12a, The Name of the Wind rate sets a firm challenge, particularly at the roof boulder problem, which demands strength and careful body positioning. The grade may feel slightly soft after the crux, with the upper slab offering less strenuous climbing but requiring focus for secure mantling. Climbers familiar with local crags like Canmore’s Highball Boulder will find the power moves comparable yet condensed into a single pitch.

Gear Requirements

This climb relies on 10 well-spaced bolts, so a standard sport rack with quickdraws is essential. Tap gloves or finger tape can help protect the hands through the roof section.

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Tags

sport climbing
roof moves
boulder problem
limestone slab
single pitch
technical
powerful moves