The Mormegil on Amon Rûdh bridges raw alpine adventure and technical climbing in a way few routes do. Perched at the western edge of this striking wall above Eldred Valley, the route invites climbers into a complex dance of cracks, corners, and chimney sections spread across 11 pitches. From the moment you leave the flagged trail, expect a short but dense brush-infiltrated approach that sets a deliberate tone—this is no easy stroll. The rock itself holds firm, offering solid edges and features that demand attention and respect.

The route begins to assert its character immediately with a classic right-facing corner layback to a bolted anchor on pitch one—a spellbinding, physical opening at 5.10c. Following pitches vary in style and intensity, seamlessly blending crack climbing into face moves, often on high-quality rock. Pitches three and five stand out for their challenge and exposure; the third pitches tests your finesse on a thin crack requiring precise body positioning, while pitch five delivers a mentally daunting offwidth that flows into an airy ladder of bolts artfully placed across a massive roof. The sheer scale and reach necessary here push commitment levels upward, and you'll find yourself high-stepping and strategizing aid beta to reach key holds.

As the climb pushes higher, the route oscillates between navigable slabs, tricky runouts, and bushy sections, requiring both technical skill and a readiness to handle loose terrain. For example, pitch seven powers through dense cedar groves before opening on to the Petty Dwarf Crossing ledge—a welcome plateau amidst the constantly shifting terrain. The latter pitches involve careful route-finding, including a traversing section on pitch eight with a bulged corner that tests balance and gear placement. Beware of the fire ant colonies near one of the belays, a reminder that the mountain environment is alive and alert.

Protection on The Mormegil demands a well-rounded rack: a double set of cams to 3 inches, including a #4 piece, alpine draws, and shoulder slings to negotiate wide sections and secure the longer pitches. Although many anchors are bolted, some parts require careful gear placement; notably, pitch five’s bolt ladder is demanding, and the descent calls for 60-meter rappels with attention not to drop ropes over the enormous roof feature.

The descent route follows the climb by rappelling, with several long, 60-meter strings. Extra webbing can help keep ropes from snagging or descending directly over exposed sections like the mega-roof. Navigation on the approach and descent isn't straightforward, so having solid GPS cues or precise directions will save time and energy.

The Mormegil balances an air of remoteness with enough fixed gear and solid rock to engage experienced climbers looking for a varied alpine experience. It’s a route that rewards those who relish variety—from hand jams and laybacks to offwidth challenges—set beneath the expansive skies of British Columbia’s coast range.

Time your climb during late spring through early fall for the best conditions; west-facing exposures provide afternoon warmth while the alpine environment remains crisp and clear. Footwear that handles sticky granite and sturdy hydration packs are musts. The journey is as much about navigating the changing demands of the climb as it is about soaking in the sweeping views of Eldred Valley stretching below. With proper preparation, The Mormegil offers an unforgettable blend of mental challenge and outdoor exhilaration.