"Offering two pitches of steady trad climbing, The Light Fandango features slab and crack sequences that reward thoughtful footwork and gear placements. Located on the Lower Dawn Wall near Welsford, this climb provides a welcoming introduction to coastal trad climbing with scenic views and straightforward access."
The Light Fandango invites climbers to engage with Welsford’s rugged Lower Dawn Wall, offering a straightforward trad climb that balances relaxed movement with rewarding terrain features. From the base, the route rises steadily over 175 feet across two pitches, threading a slab and crack system that gives both the novice and seasoned trad climber space to test their skills in a peaceful setting. The first pitch begins with a clean slab that challenges balance and footwork before easing into a thin vertical crack—an inviting line that rewards steady progress with a spacious ledge above. As you round a blunt corner, the wall opens into an easier slabby section intersected by cracks that provide secure holds and gear placements. Shortly before reaching the belay, you’ll spot a bolted anchor to your right for a neighboring climb, but The Light Fandango continues onward to a large ledge marking transition from Lower Dawn to Upper Dawn. The second pitch steps climbers around the corner, taking them along a varied crack system that threads upward beside a large tree clinging to the cliff’s edge. This line culminates at a bolted anchor, perched with views across the coastal forests and hills that frame this quiet corner of New Brunswick. Gear requirements are straightforward—standard trad rack setups handle the range of crack widths encountered, with placements mostly reliable and the rock solid. The approach to Lower Dawn Wall is short and manageable, making it easy to get on the route without a long haul in or complicated logistics. Climbing The Light Fandango offers a chance to move fluidly on rock shaped by glacial history, with a landscape that encourages patience and focus rather than pushing adrenaline to the limit. For those venturing here, timing climbs for morning or late afternoon can avoid peak sun, as the southeast-facing wall catches warmth in the cooler months, yet offers relief in summer’s golden hours. After topping out, descent follows established walk-offs that lead down through mixed forest terrain back to the basecamp area. The route’s approachable nature and moderate technical demands make it an excellent choice for anyone looking to experience trad climbing in a serene, inviting environment rich with natural character but free from unnecessary complexity.
Although gear placements are solid, take care on the thin vertical crack where protection options narrow. The slab sections can become slick when wet, so avoid climbing here after rain or damp conditions.
Clip the bolted anchor on the first pitch’s right side sparingly; it belongs to a neighboring climb.
Approach the wall in the morning or late afternoon to avoid direct sun on the southeast-facing slab.
Wear sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability for the slab sections.
Be ready for some walk-off descent through mixed forest terrain—trail can be uneven but well-marked.
A standard trad rack is sufficient here, with ample crack sizes to accommodate a variety of cams and nuts. Climbing protection is generally solid, making placements reliable and straightforward on both pitches.
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