5.10c, Trad
McQuirks Mountain
Canada
"The Hallway on McQuirks Mountain is a dynamic trad climb blending slab, face, and chimney moves into a single pitch. Featuring multiple optional finishes, it's a versatile challenge demanding precise gear placement and sustained technique on solid granite."
The Hallway on McQuirks Mountain’s Main Wall offers a compelling encounter for trad climbers seeking an engaging, single-pitch ascent with a blend of slab, face, and chimney climbing. Located in New Brunswick, Canada, this route sits quietly between the neighboring Combat Math and Trolley Tracks climbs, marked by a bolt that guides you into the initial slab section. From there, climbers navigate an overlap that demands technical moves and precise footwork, where gear finds are sparse but key to maintaining confidence.
As the line shifts slightly left, discontinuous cracks allow for selective protection placements, adding a tactical edge to the climb’s rhythm. The real character emerges as you enter a very shallow, flaring chimney — aptly named “The Hallway.” This section invites controlled stem moves, mingling balance and power, leading to a short left-facing corner. Transitioning out of the chimney, the climb eases into easier cracks that open onto a ledge crowned by a large tree, serving as a natural rest before the final pitch to the anchor.
What sets The Hallway apart are its multiple alternate finishes that cater to varying desires for difficulty and style. The Iron Cross finish, a rightward move at about two-thirds height, confronts climbers with an overhanging finger crack rated 5.11c — a test of strength and technique that elevates the route’s challenge. For those seeking boulder-style moves, the Boulder finish climbs straight from the corner via an overhanging face graded V2, providing a powerful capstone. The left finish treads near "the boulder" slightly to the side, presenting a tough top-rope challenge (V1) where protection is more limited but the experience worth the effort.
Protection calls for a careful rack up to 2 inches, with a strong recommendation to double up on smaller cams, especially in the purple to yellow TCU sizes to secure placements in tricky sections. Tri-cams come in handy for the varied crack sizes, while the bolts anchor the crux sections and secure a bolted rappel station. With three votes reflecting moderate popularity, The Hallway offers a focused experience for climbers prepared to place their own gear and manage technical moves on mostly sound, though occasionally slippery, rock.
Approach-wise, the Main Wall is accessed through a solid trail that crosses forested sections, culminating in a well-marked base near the large tree ledge visible from the start. The route’s orientation provides good sunlight exposure in the morning and partial shade as the day progresses, making spring through early fall the ideal climbing window when rock temperatures are optimal for friction. After completing the climb, the descent is straightforward — rappelling from the bolted anchor delivers a secure and efficient exit back to the trail.
Experienced climbers will appreciate the thoughtful mix of slab delicacy and overhanging commitment here, combined with the intricate gear demands and route-finding within The Hallway. It’s a route that rewards patience, clear assessment of each move, and respect for the natural lines etched into the Main Wall’s granite face. Packing double sets of small cams, staying hydrated for the moderate approach, and timing your climb in cooler hours will ensure you engage with the route’s full character without unnecessary risk. Whether you pursue the classic finish or push the limits with the Iron Cross or Boulder variations, The Hallway presents a finely balanced trad challenge with compelling variety and texture.
Exercise caution during the shallow chimney stem; placements can be sparse and rock may feel polished. The approach includes forested sections with potential slippery leaves after rain. Always use a helmet and double-check your gear placements before the overlap and chimney segments.
Double up on small cams for best protection security in cracks.
Start early to catch cooler morning rock and avoid afternoon heat.
Hydrate well; approach includes moderate forested terrain with limited shade.
Prepare for tricky stem moves in the shallow chimney section.
Expect to use a single rack up to 2", with doubling on smaller cams (purple to yellow TCU recommended). Tri-cams add security for intermittent cracks. Two bolts protect key sections, and a bolted rappel anchor completes the gear setup.
Upload your photos of The Hallway and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.