HomeClimbingThe Gringo Ate My Baby

The Gringo Ate My Baby

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
crack climbing
single pitch
bolted
dry desert
sun exposure
El Potrero Chico
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
The Gringo Ate My Baby
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused 100-foot sport climb on Cat Wall’s rugged granite, The Gringo Ate My Baby challenges climbers with a lively crack system near Blind Faith. Ideal for those wanting to refine their crack technique within El Potrero Chico’s sunbaked desert setting."

The Gringo Ate My Baby

The Gringo Ate My Baby stands out on the Cat Wall within El Potrero Chico, offering a compact but rewarding sport climb that rewards both attention to technique and a calm mindset. From the moment your fingers meet the jagged crack system—distinct and alive just to the right of the bustling Blind Faith route—the climb challenges you to read sharp edges and calculated moves over a solid 100 feet of vertical granite. Beginning atop a sturdy block that demands precise footing, this 5.9 route invites climbers to flow deliberately, threading protection smoothly along fixed bolts while negotiating the crack's edges that flex between jams and laybacks. El Potrero Chico’s distinct arid air presses lightly against your skin, while sun and shade chase each other on the rock face, shaping how heat and friction paint your experience.

This brief but focused pitch is characterized by solid stone that is both forgiving and honest. The bolts are set to guide you confidently, but the climb’s subtle complexities lie in your ability to exploit the crack’s shifting width, creating moments that feel more like a puzzle than a pure power feed. On arrival, the sound of the desert breeze moving through the canyon’s crevices seems to dare you forward, while distant birds punctuate the quiet with bursts of flight. Despite being a shorter route, it conveys El Potrero Chico’s adventurous spirit succinctly—perfect for climbers looking to sharpen their crack skills without doubling the time commitment.

Approaching this climb is straightforward: the well-trodden trail to Cat Wall leads you through open desert scrub, dusted with sun-baked stones and resilient plants that lean into the steady breeze. Expect a 15-minute approach from the nearest trailhead, with GPS coordinates leading you to the base roughly at 25.95006 latitude and -100.47684 longitude. Given the region’s heat, early morning starts provide cooler conditions and cleaner holds, while late afternoon climbs can offer more shade but require attention to the dropping temperature which affects friction.

In planning your ascent, keep hydration a priority—the dry air moves quickly, and the approach, while not long, can sap energy in hotter months. Light, tapered shoes with a responsive edge will serve you well on the tight jams and face holds. Although the protection is secured with bolts, bringing a set of small cams can offer additional confidence if you prefer backing up the anchors or want to practice placing gear. After topping out, the descent is a straightforward rappel or a short walk to the base, depending on your party’s preference and gear setup.

With 43 votes averaging just over 2 stars, this route can surprise first-timers and seasoned climbers alike with its blend of accessible difficulty and subtle technicality. The Gringo Ate My Baby stands as an engaging option to expand your sport climbing repertoire while soaking in the rugged beauty of Northern Mexico’s premier climbing destination.

Climber Safety

The rock is solid but can be sharp; watch for edges during foot transitions. The desert climate means temperature swings can affect grip, so prepare for hot conditions. Bolts are fixed, but always double-check anchors before committing to rappels.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid harsh midday sun on the wall.

Hydrate well before and after the approach due to dry desert air.

Wear slightly stiffer shoes to handle the crack’s varying widths efficiently.

Rappel descent is quick but ensure you have a redundant anchor system.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels true to form with a few technical jams and a crux near the midsection that elevates the challenge. It’s not overly stiff but demands attention to footwork and balance. Compared to other 5.9s at El Potrero Chico, it’s on the leaner side—short but requiring precise execution.

Gear Requirements

Bolts secure protection on this route. While the fixed anchors are reliable, bringing small cams can help back up anchors or practice trad placements. Climbing shoes with sensitivity for crack jams and edging will improve movement efficiency.

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Tags

crack climbing
single pitch
bolted
dry desert
sun exposure
El Potrero Chico