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The Goat: Epic Alpine Sport Climb in Marble Canyon

Lillooet, Canada
alpine climbing
multi-pitch sport
limestone
south-facing
long route
loose rock caution
scramble
60m rope link-ups
Length: 2100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
19
Location
The Goat
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"The Goat commands the south-facing limestone of Marble Canyon with 19 bolted pitches spanning over 2,100 feet. This alpine sport route blends sustained climbing with a rugged mountain setting and a manageable approach and descent, making it a true endurance challenge in British Columbia."

The Goat: Epic Alpine Sport Climb in Marble Canyon

Rising boldly from the rugged interior of British Columbia’s Marble Canyon, The Goat commands attention as one of Canada’s longest alpine sport climbs. This 19-pitch adventure stretches over 2,100 feet of predominantly limestone terrain, weaving through an environment where the mountain’s raw character surrounds every move. The climb’s south-facing wall catches the sun, warming the rock and sharpening the contrasts between shadows and light, a welcome companion on crisp alpine days. Yet, this route demands respect — the limestone occasionally sheds loose stones, especially around belay stations, where worn holds remind you that the mountain is alive and watchful. Staying firmly on route is essential, not just for your own safety but to protect any climbers below from unexpected rockfall. Despite these hazards, the middle section rewards perseverance with solid, enjoyable climbing that is both sustained and varied.

Access is straightforward compared to the length of the climb: a concise approach paired with a relatively short descent makes it manageable as a day-long commitment for motivated climbers. The route begins with a moderate introduction across several bolted pitches, climbing steadily through climbing grades that range from 5.5 to 5.9, with a crux steepening to 5.11a on the Billy Goat Gruff Variation for those seeking extra challenge. The third pitch diverges into a 60-meter scramble that shifts the rhythm, providing a moment to breathe in the alpine air and absorb the landscape before launching back into technical climbing.

Protection is well established, with solid bolts on every pitch and two-bolt anchors equipped with rappel rings or maillons that offer peace of mind. Although the original topo advises planned 60-meter rope link-ups for pitches one and two, four and five, and ten and eleven, a single 60-meter rope suffices for most sections if you’re ready to manage rope drag. Starting at pitch four is an option via approach variations, accommodating different strategy or conditions on the ground.

The descent is not to be overlooked. From the pine tree atop pitch 19, the trail requires a cautious traverse northeast around a striking 3-meter limestone pillar. A short 20-meter rappel drops into a gully that lets you walk back to the highway within an hour. This descent’s steepness calls for sturdy boots and gloves to maintain sure footing and grip when handling ropes — an often underestimated necessity in alpine terrain.

Beyond technical details, The Goat cultivates a deep connection to place: the smell of warm limestone, the scrape of rock under fingers, and the mountain’s steady murmur guide you upward. It’s a climb that asks for precision, attentiveness, and endurance. It may not be a casual day out for newcomers, but for climbers craving lengthy alpine sport routes free of the typical wilderness approach grind, it stands as a compelling challenge rich with atmospheric rewards.

Climber Safety

Loose rock at belay stations and occasional route areas means extra caution is needed when climbing as well as when topping out. Keep helmets on, stay aware of parties below, and carry gloves to handle the rough rappel anchors and descent brush. The steep walk-off is slippery and steep, so solid footwear and cautious footing are essential to avoid slips or injuries.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches19
Length2100 feet

Local Tips

Maintain strict route discipline to avoid dislodging loose rock, especially near belays.

Choose sunny days for dry and warm climbing on the south-facing wall.

Bring sturdy boots and gloves for the steep, brushy descent after the rappel.

Consider linking pitches 1&2, 4&5, and 10&11 with a 60m rope to save time but watch for rope drag.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, The Goat sits at a solid moderate difficulty level that feels true to grade but stretched by its length and alpine setting. The addition of a 5.11a variation on pitch seven offers a crux that will test your power and precision, shifting the effort from endurance-focused moderate terrain to a punchy technical challenge. Compared to other sport climbs in the area, this route demands consistent movement and adaptability to occasional loose rock, blending the feel of traditional alpine climbs with bolted protection.

Gear Requirements

All pitches are bolted with two-bolt anchors featuring rappel rings or maillons. Most pitches can be linked with a 60m rope, though rope drag may require careful rope management. The approach allows starting at pitch 4 via two distinct paths marked with pink flagging.

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Tags

alpine climbing
multi-pitch sport
limestone
south-facing
long route
loose rock caution
scramble
60m rope link-ups